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1  Tech Talk / Restoration Corner & Member's Projects / Re: pictures of the GRM challenge spirit project
 on: Yesterday at 01:36:58 
Started by dusterbd13 | Post by dusterbd13




We also got our inside door latched sorted out. Dollar store dog leashes. The little buckle even fit through the factory linkage hole with slight grinding. Works perfect! Steve is again mcgyver.  

So after all this it was time for the test drive of glory. To say I was excited is an understatement. I about pissed myself with glee.  
Got in, fired it up, shifted into reverse, and nothing. Stood on the brakes, revved the piss out of it, still nothing. Added fluid. Nothing. Added more fluid. Nothing. Changed the filter. Nothing. Son of a.....
So I pulled the trans. Turns out when we re-installed it we somehow missed the torque converter engagement and destroyed the front pump. Screwed is an understatement. Discouraged and frustrated is an understatement. Walked away for a few days, talked to some people to see what options we have, etc.  
Guy at church offered me a trade. A 79 ford longbed with a 302 and 3 on the floor for our dead trans. Seems his one work truck has a bad valve body, and he needs one. Ours was presumably fine (hes a ford guy), and the rest of the trans good as well based upon fluid, previous drive experiences when it was in the Lincoln, etc. His plan was to drop the ford off with us, grab the trans, replace the pump, and put it in his work truck. The longbed he got for free, as a guy he used to rent a building to left it there. 5 years ago. He was going to scrap it, so instead he planned to trade it to us.  
Well, no plan of battle ever survives contact with the enemy.  
His grandson, who has a 77 ford longbed 4x4, got sideswiped in a hit and run. Grandson had liability only. So, family first. Cant blame the guy. But he wound up giving us 300 for the trans, as that was still cheaper than he could find a known good one for, or even the valvebody he needed. Which left us with enough money in the budget for a trans, but no trans.  
Dad came to the rescue. From his RV in Colorado, he found a 3 hour old listing for a ford 302 3 speed trans in Roanoke Virginia for 50 bucks. Supposedly rebuilt, with floor shifter and bellhousing. Jumped in the truck, drove to Roanoke and back in about 7 hours, and picked it up. Then discovered that it was a fixed yoke from a longbed, and did not have a 302 bell. It had a 390 bell. Managed to trade the 390 bell to Gary at city salvage for the 302 bell. Bought a 302 flywheel from craigslist for 45 bucks. In a stroke of good fortune, it all plays nicely together! Even the bloackplate, inspection cover, and starter from the AOD fit!  



The next hurdle is getting the clutch actuation worked out. In 1980, AMC used a hydraulic clutch setup in the 4cyl spirits. We still have a clutch pedal. So, when I ordered my clutch kit from rockauto, I ordered that setup. Should work with minor fab. We also need to add the splined section from the explorer driveshaft to the current hybrid shaft. Making this the 4th configuration of driveshaft with the car never leaving the lift. Hopefully,though, at the end of the holiday weekend it will be moving under its own power. Assuming all our parts get here on time, and it goes according to plan. Ha!
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2  Tech Talk / Restoration Corner & Member's Projects / Re: pictures of the GRM challenge spirit project
 on: Yesterday at 01:35:56 
Started by dusterbd13 | Post by dusterbd13
First up, our last challenge car night together didn't go according to plan. We had carb issues, running issues, etc. To the point where we hydro-locked the engine when the cab bowl on the primaries overfilled. But before we get there, ill back up a smidge.
We started the night with a short list. Check plugs and headers for tightness. Bleed brakes. Install a lap belt. Install lights. Get running and idling. Test drive. Simple, right?
Right. Sure. Go ahead and laugh now, because you and I both know it aint never that easy.  
So, we put Dallas on headers and plugs, me on wiring, Steve on Steve stuff. Dallas took three hours to get the 5 missing header bolts in and the spark plugs on the drivers side tight. Its not that Dallas is incompetant or lazy, its just that dad gum difficult to get to ANYTHING on the drivers side. Especially with the spark plugs being angled, the headers made for a different set of heads, and the steering column being essentially through the primaries in between the two. But he got it done.  
While he was doing that, I was doing wiring. Installed the alternator plugs stampie scored for me (2 bucks at his junkyard), hooked up the headlights and spotlights that came with the car, hooked up the side markers and such as well. Still don't have brake lights, but im not sure why. Haven't really looked yet either, which you will see why shortly.  
Heres pictures of the lighting. You can also see out tow hook better.  

While we were doing this, Steve was nut and bolt checking things, servicing the fire bottles, and making a dash cap out of gas flue from the scrap pile. Im pretty sure that the flue came from a rental house rehab in china grove, but don't quote me on that.  

We also spent an inordinate amount of time and brake fluid to finally get the brakes bled. And ate the paint off the trans tunnel. But we got that done. And the leaks fixed. Which meant it was time for a test drive!
Except it wouldn't idle. Or run consistently. While I was in drivers seat monitoring gauges and keeping it living, Dallas and Steve were setting timing (by ear, as there is no freaking way to actually get a light on the pointer on the drivers side, and the passengers side pointer has no corresponding marks on the balancer) setting float level, trying to bring the idle down from 2k, etc. Fought us every step of the way, and then overheated. Joy. While we had the key running for the fan to cool it off, we noticed the strong smell of gas. Discovered that the primary bowl vent was spewing gas even after we lowered the float the whole way. Hydro-locked the engine. Done for the night.  
Next day, I drained the oil, changed the filter, and pulled the needle and seat to see if it was stuck. It was. With this.

After that, got the float set. Then, found out TV cable was causing the engine to hang at 2k by not letting the throttle blade close completely. Little bending of the bracket cured that. Added another 1/2 gallon of coolant, and overheating issue went away. Replaced the fragged rear u joint, finished filling the trans with fluid, and began to bleed the power steering system. Promptly blew our hose splice all over the shop. Done for the day.  
This should be simple, right? Well, its not. Late model o ring jeep box, mid 90s ford pump. No way to get there from here off the shelf, or cheaply. What I wound up doing was buying a new jeep hose (15.99 orielly) and a 3/8 inverted female flare fitting (2.50) the plan was to flare the metal ends and make a replaceable fitting. Except when I got the ford fitting out, there wasn't enough left to flare. Solution was to have a chunk of 3/8 fuel line welded to it. So I called my local welding guy sonny. He said to bring my pieces over. For 5 bucks, he used some sort of silver welding rod and oxy-acetaline and had it done in less time than it took to type. While waiting for one of his machines to finish a pistol part. He actually gave me my 5 bucks back when I helped him find his chuck key for his big lathe.
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3  Tech Talk / Restoration Corner & Member's Projects / Re: pictures of the GRM challenge spirit project
 on: Yesterday at 01:34:54 
Started by dusterbd13 | Post by dusterbd13
Challenge Budget: Car/parts $200  
Donor Lincoln town car: 410  
Engine crossmember: 120  
Sold transmission crossmember from Lincoln: 10 Sold rear axle from lincoln: -50 Scrapped what was left of lincoln: -89  
Sold AOD from lincoln (300, but can only recoup 261)
Engine swap: 5.0 plus 300 boot  
Sold kelstar wheels-200 (cant recoup more than we spent)  
2x2 angle iron, tractor supply 12.05  
Brand new Watkins glen nascar slicks and wheels, which were bought for $50, and promptly sold to Dallas dad for $50 and some weld wheels with really old drag slicks. So, slicks were $0, but $50 taken out of the recoup limit.  
6 5/8 heim and jamb nuts, as well as threaded tube for the front suspension: $65  
Pair of aluminum seats, $40 and on;y usng 1 so $20. .  
Sheet of flame retardant high density foam $10  
Fire suppression system parts (not included in challenge budget. But ive had 2nd degree burns on the boys before, so were getting safety gear come hell or high water)  
1/4 plate, scrap metal yard: 7.50  
Mustang convertible mounts 22  
Bending plate cost 25
Swedged tubing, ebay: 31.90  
Threaded adjusters and 650lb springs, SRI performance: 65
2 used billstein shocks, pull-a-part: 14
Cage materials: 271.40
Spool welding wire: 33
Leaf spring sliders: 40
Clamps for spring adjusters: 23.59
Adjustable brake bias valve 18 (amazon)
2 cans of flat black spray paint (lowes project source) .97 ea
Half melted, used 21 circuit ez wiring harness cut from my duster after the mice chewed it up and it had a meltdown. $5 is what I was quoted as FMV due to the fact that copper prices are down.
Accessories and flexplate: see link in update
Battery cables and relays, pull-a-part: 12.75
Steering box, pull-a-part: 27.50
25feet 3/8 steel fuel line, ebay: 25.75
Bypass fuel pressure regulator, ebay: 29.23
fuel pump: 23
Used mix and match nitrous kit: 32
Two half cans of ford engine blue $7
3/8 plastic line clamps, lowes: 1.78
1/2 metal line clamps, lowes: 3.48
Throttle return springs and brackets: 5
3/8 2x compression fittings, 3x npt-compression, 1x t fitting from plumbing supply house: 6
battery hold down, oriellys 5.99
2x 36 inch 1x1 holey tube: 2
Driveshaft safety loop (dad bought it at an auction last week) 5
Tractor supply run for bolts and angle iron: 18.08
Wheels for monster slicks: 50 from facebook marketplace
Lower radiator hose: 14.82
Crimping a splice in power steering hose: 13.69
Oil filter: 4.17
Bucket of hose clamps (pull-a-part doesn't charge for these, so I added the admission charge to the yard): 1
Scrap chunk of 16gauge sheetmetal: .25
Suspension and 3.73 posi 8.8, offerup: 100
Traded ultralights and sun tach for  pro-tach, mechanical 2 5/8 gauges and chunk of diamond plate from a 4x4 buggy guy down the street
Rear brake hose: Challenge budget exempt
Spark plug boot insulators, ebay, 11
Spring perches, amazon 17.49
Pipe standoffs (5) and 3/8 allthread, rhulens supply 8.22
Chunk of diamond plate: unknown. dad scrounged it somewhere, and said he got got for free. I just dont know where, or if I need to FMV it.
Misc crap (zipties, sheet metal screws, wiring terminals, used toggles, nuts and bolts, etc. Pretty much the little oddball crap that goes into every build that I had laying around from over the years) 50
Starter solenoid: 12ish (placeholder till I find the receipt or a cheaper one)
2 inch glasspacks, chunks of 2 inch exhaust tubing, and a little bit of stainless 2 inch: steves buddy: 15
Tow hook: 3?
Steering wheel from swap meet 5
Quick release, ebay: 19.99
Manual trans: 50
Flywheel: 45
2 dog leases 1.98
2 u joints: 21.98
2 u joint straps 5.99
Clutch kit, clutch master, clutch slave: 107.13 shipped
Power steering hose: 15.99
3/8 coupler: 2.50
Welding: 5
Alternator plugs: 2
New challenge budget total: 1753.14
In this installment of challenge car insanity. I break lots of stuff and get screwed/saved/come out slightly ahead.  
A little housekeeping first. On another forum, the comment was made that our scrap pile seems a little too convenient to be true. Like im lying/cheating. Which im not. This scrap pile has been collecting for a couple of years now, as scrap was down, we were busy, etc. There’s probably 3 houses, and 8 or 9 cars worth of nuts in these piles. But I wanted to take photographic proof to prove that I am just that darned lucky.  






 
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4  Racing/Off-Roading / High Performance / Re: epoxy for side of intake runner
 on: 05/24/17 at 14:15:08 
Started by fuzz401 | Post by amxlonnie
grind it and weld the outside , problem solved ! Dont forget to preheat it !
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5  The Lounge / Events: Shows/Drags/Swap Meets / Re: GAD 17     ..   16th Year  ...
 on: 05/24/17 at 12:56:23 
Started by TUBBED_X | Post by TUBBED_X
due to construction in the shut down area we will be running 1/8 mile this year...
Just got the message this morning...
Mike
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6  Tech Talk / Engine Repair/Modifications / Re: Grafting Mopar Victor 383 to AMC RPM Air-Gap
 on: 05/18/17 at 14:32:33 
Started by SuperStockAMX | Post by SuperStockAMX
Same height just better entry angle.
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7  Tech Talk / Engine Repair/Modifications / Re: Grafting Mopar Victor 383 to AMC RPM Air-Gap
 on: 05/18/17 at 12:17:23 
Started by SuperStockAMX | Post by Class Guy
The 2 degree installer is taller than the 5 degree?
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8  Tech Talk / Engine Repair/Modifications / Re: Grafting Mopar Victor 383 to AMC RPM Air-Gap
 on: 05/18/17 at 01:48:15 
Started by SuperStockAMX | Post by SuperStockAMX
Haven’t updated for awhile. Ran into problems, of all things, installing pistons in the block. Here’s what I wrote on another forum:
 
OMG...whatt a pain in the ass these trick skinny rings that are back cut to install! I pretty much figured out the problems but couldn’t figure a solution.  
The issues: .043/.043/3mm ring pack.  
Due to being back cut to .135” and .140” radial, in a stationary position installed on the pistons, the rings kind of flop around in the breeze. The trick is to get them squeezed into the lands (duh) and down into the cylinders without a ring popping out along the way. I have an odd bore of 4.236” so no standard ring compressors. So I was using the adjustable Total Seal with 5* taper. Just wasn’t working. I could get the oil rings in the bore but always fighting the #2 scraper ring. That ring will twist so easy and then will stick in the groove. I have gotten pretty good at re-setting that ring as it is very soft metal.  
Never an issue with #1 ring as it is tool steel.  
Upon consulting with a professional engine builder, was told I needed the K&D ring compressor; the one with the pliers and assorted sizes of rings in a kit. So I bought that. The problem there is you have to squeeze the heck out of the pliers, keep the compressor flush with the block and WHAM! with your hammer handle to quickly discharge the piston from compressor to cylinder. Should be easy...
I installed 3 pistons and they went in like they’re supposed to. The other FIVE!!!! aargh....the bottom oil rail popped out and got mangled all to crap. If anybody’s laughing their are off...that’s ok.
So I slink back to Keith at Total Seal. I tell him “look, last engines I built had the trick 1/16” rings and I never built an engine with back cut rings much less skinny .043” rings” I explain I have the problems figured out but am at a loss on the solution and yes, I realize racers and builders all over the world do not have this problem!!!
He actually agreed with me; the thin rings can be a bear, and the back cut ads more difficulty to the issue. I am glad I’m not alone! So he offers me this advice...”we need to build you a tapered ring compressor to your 4.236” bore and you CAN NOT use a 5* taper, it has to be 2* taper".  
"Whoa! That’s the solution I say....” Kinda wish I would have heard this many moons ago but they had it to me the next day (last Tuesday). So I have the part I think I need and I should be able to use my thumbs and not a hammer; like I’ve always done.  
 
With a 5* taper, it allows the ring to twist on the way down. Especially the #2 ring as it’s super sensitive and it hangs out of the land quite a bit.  
Also, the top of the pistons are .050” smaller OD than the skirt measurement point. So think about the piston skirt sliding through that tool and then the clearances between the piston and the tool increase!  
It’s because of this I need a 2* taper. Make sense?
 
Finally! Nothing like having the right tool for the job! Piece of cake to install pistons into the block. There was a chip on one of the #2 rings that I didn’t catch so I’ll get another in the morning and have the last piston installed before noon.  
Next: Fit crank scraper.
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9  Tech Talk / Restoration Corner & Member's Projects / Re: pictures of the GRM challenge spirit project
 on: 05/10/17 at 03:00:59 
Started by dusterbd13 | Post by dusterbd13
She also wanted to model the new smaller steering wheel and quick release setup.  

This was made from the 5 dollar grant wheel from the swap meet, the cheapest splined quick release ebay had to offer, and a chunk of an old s10 steering wheel. Problem I ran into was that the quick release is 6 bolt, 2hich nothing else is. Except a trashed s10 steering wheel from a first gen s10 has a 6 bolt chunk in it that can be removed. Then throw it in a bench vice, bend it around a good bit to change the spacing of the 6 bolts, and bolt the quick release to it. The splines of the s10 wheel fit the AMC perfect, ironically enough. I suspected it was a gm sourced column, and apparently I was right. Anyway, the grant wheel was 5 bolt, not six. So, I eyeballed it square, marked the holes, and drilled it for the 6 bolt pattern in through bolt style. It works. Makes the steering wheel too close to the driver, and makes it where we can move the seat back a few more inches, helping weight distribution. So, overall ill call it a win.  
Last thing we really did is watch Steve be a freaking Leonardo davinci. He took bits and pieces from the scrap metal bin, some bolts, a grinder, and a welder and MADE perfect adjustable mounts for a backbrace to the cage. The dude is freaking macgyver mixed with Einstein. I don't know how he sees this stuff in his head and just makes it. Absolutely amazing to see.  

 
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10  Tech Talk / Restoration Corner & Member's Projects / Re: pictures of the GRM challenge spirit project
 on: 05/10/17 at 02:59:46 
Started by dusterbd13 | Post by dusterbd13




While Steve was doing this, I was working on tire to fender clearance, and parts pile consolidation. Figured it was time to radius. I almost felt bad cutting these fenders up. Almost.  
I also added the prototype tow hook dad had made for his c4 race car. He gave it to us, and I really wanted to add it. So its located on the passengers side through the front valance, and retained with the bolts that hold the idler arm to the frame. The next morning, since I needed the lift, I pushed the car outside. I also washed it, as this darn thing got me dirty just looking at it.  



Next day we worked on this was Sunday. What started as getting the old axle squared up enough for a test drive (iso-clamps wore out, and allowed it to shift around) turned into getting the 8.8 in, shortening the driveshaft another inch and changing the rear yoke to the explorer one, building custom leaf springs, and ....
The short of it is, the explorer axle at stock width is almost designed for this. The factory explorer spring perches line up almost exactly with the inside of the factory AMC leaves. Which means that when you add the spring perches, you can just sit them directly outboard of explorer perches, and the axle is square and centered up in the car. Problem here is that there's no room to get u-bolts down by the explorer perches. Notch the corners, flap wheel a little bit, and bobs your uncle. I also took the time to build higher rate leaves. I used the mail leaf from the AMC with the axle pin hole bored out a little bit, and the two main leaves from the explorer. The big fat bottom leaf from the explorer was left out, and the top leaf was as well. The explorer second leaf lines up almost exactly with the front spring eye of the AMC leaf, which should be very effective for combating wheel hop. I used the explorer axle plates underneath, the explorer u-bolts, and plan to adapt some used bilstiens from the scrap pile (took them off my elky after 10k and threw them away, as they are about dead. They were used when I bough them from the junkyard 4 years ago...) another note is that with the stock width explorer axle, the front and rear track widths are now exactly equal. I didn't plan that, but ill take it!
Anyway, heres pictured of the finished product.  




While we were buttoning up the rear end, Dallas and the new teammates came by. He got majority custody of all three kids. Which is the greatest thing to happen in this entire build thread. Honestly, I could kill the project here, and still call it a complete success as he stayed sane and emotionally stable throughout the whole ugly mess. That was the overall goal when I started the team, even greater than going to the challenge or becoming internet famous.  
That being said, we added his three kids to the team. His oldest (Sparrow) was the dedicated lug nut installer .

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