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pictures of the GRM challenge spirit project (Read 6576 times)
dusterbd13
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Re: pictures of the GRM challenge spirit project
Reply #45 - 05/02/17 at 01:27:53
 
Challenge Budget: Car/parts $200  
Donor Lincoln town car: 410  
Engine crossmember: 120  
Sold transmission crossmember from Lincoln: 10 Sold rear axle from lincoln: -50 Scrapped what was left of lincoln: -89  
trans cooler: 2  
Engine swap: 5.0 plus 300 boot  
Sold kelstar wheels-200 (cant recoup more than we spent)  
2x2 angle iron, tractor supply 12.05  
Brand new Watkins glen nascar slicks and wheels, which were bought for $50, and promptly sold to Dallas dad for $50 and some weld wheels with really old drag slicks. So, slicks were $0, but $50 taken out of the recoup limit.  
6 5/8 heim and jamb nuts, as well as threaded tube for the front suspension: $65  
Pair of aluminum seats, $40 and on;y usng 1 so $20. .  
Sheet of flame retardant high density foam $10  
Fire suppression system parts (not included in challenge budget. But ive had 2nd degree burns on the boys before, so were getting safety gear come hell or high water)  
Solid steel lowering blocks, with the holes drilled to offset the rear axle rearwards. $5  
1/4 plate, scrap metal yard: 7.50  
Mustang convertible mounts 22  
Bending plate cost 25
Swedged tubing, ebay: 31.90  
Threaded adjusters and 650lb springs, SRI performance: 65
2 used billstein shocks, pull-a-part: 14
Cage materials: 271.40
Spool welding wire: 33
Leaf spring sliders: 40
Clamps for spring adjusters: 23.59
Adjustable brake bias valve 18 (amazon)
2 cans of flat black spray paint (lowes project source) .97 ea
Half melted, used 21 circuit ez wiring harness cut from my duster after the mice chewed it up and it had a meltdown. $5 is what I was quoted as FMV due to the fact that copper prices are down.
Accessories and flexplate: see link in update
Battery cables and relays, pull-a-part: 12.75
Steering box, pull-a-part: 27.50
25feet 3/8 steel fuel line, ebay: 25.75
Bypass fuel pressure regulator, ebay: 29.23
Used and noisy fuel pump: 6.50
Used mix and match nitrous kit: 32
Used cast coat aluminum paint: 3.50 (advance price is $7 new, and the can was half empty)
Two half cans of ford engine blue $7
3/8 plastic line clamps, lowes: 1.78
1/2 metal line clamps, lowes: 3.48
Throttle return springs and brackets: 5
3/8 2x compression fittings, 3x npt-compression, 1x t fitting from plumbing supply house: 6
battery hold down, oriellys 5.99
2x 36 inch 1x1 holey tube: 2
Driveshaft safety loop (dad bought it at an auction last week) 5
Tractor supply run for bolts and angle iron: 18.08
Wheels for monster slicks: 50 from facebook marketplace
Shifter material (going to retain the 7.50 number for now, unsure of what fair market value for this stuff would be)
Lower radiator hose: 14.82
Crimping a splice in power steering hose: 13.69
Oil filter: 4.17
Bucket of hose clamps (pull-a-part doesn't charge for these, so I added the admission charge to the yard): 1
Scrap chunk of 16gauge sheetmetal: .25
Suspension and 3.73 posi 8.8, offerup: 100
Traded ultralights and sun tach for  pro-tach, mechanical 2 5/8 gauges and chunk of diamond plate from a 4x4 buggy guy down the street
Rear brake hose: challemge budget exempt
Spark plug boot insulators, ebay, 11
Spring perches, amazon 17.49
Pipe standoffs (5) and 3/8 allthread, rhulens supply 8.22
Chunk of diamond plate: unknown dad scrounged it somewhere, and said he got ot for free. I just dont know where, or if I need to FMV it.
Misc crap (zipties, sheet metal screws, wiring terminals, used toggles, nuts and bolts, etc. Pretty much the little oddball crap that goes into every build that I had laying around from over the years) 50
Starter solenoid: 12ish (placeholder till I find the receipt or a cheaper one)
New challenge budget total: 1715.08
 
Holy crap we've been busy. I really don't even know where to start, honestly. I guess we will start with the tire fitment. Well, we all know they don't really. Up front there was no way to turn. The rockers were in the way. So, we cut the last remaining virgin sheetmetal on the car. We also beat the seam flat with a 5lb sledge. Tires clear now.  


While dallas was cutting and beating, I finally gusseted the strut rod brackets. And added the proper hardware/ and painted them black. And made the spacers for the heim joints from a scrap of gas pipe off the plumbing truck.  


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dusterbd13
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Re: pictures of the GRM challenge spirit project
Reply #46 - 05/02/17 at 01:28:56
 
We also took the x pipe exhaust that didn't fit, and hit it with a sawzall to make headpipes. I also added a chunk of flex tubing to route the exhaust fom under the car temporarily. But a real exhaust will be fabricated from the chunks of the old. SCCA has a 95db at 50ft sound rule, and I need to follow that for testing.  

Next, we giggled a little. The car is a 97 inch wheelbase, with a front track width of 76 inches. It should be stupid. Which is just right. But, the rear track is a few inches narrower than the front. Its also an AMC 15 with 2.xx gears and a peg leg. It was on borrowed time before this much grip. Wed been half hunting an 8.8 from an explorer. Uncut, they are 2.5 inches wider than the amc15, strong, plentiful, and available with gears that don't suck. Usually they are stupid expensive. I found an ad on offer-up that was at least a month old of a guy parting out a 99. Messaged him, and asked what hear ratio it had. He had no idea. So he sent me a picture of the data sticker, and it turned out to be a 3.73 with limited slip. So I lowballed the hell out of him, as I really wanted the 4.11 gears, and he took my offer of 100 bucks for the complete rear suspension. Springs, driveshaft, axle and all. He even offered to pull it for that price. Unfortunately, he cut the brake hose to the frame from the axle. Luckily, that part was deemed to be challenge budget exempt. It was only 18 bucks, but at this point in the budget, 18 bucks is 18 bucks. The axle will make front and rear track width almost identical. The springs aren't quite the same dimensions as the AMC pieces, but with some mix and match, we should be good there. Ill have to adapt the staggered shock from the AMC as it helps prevent axle windup. And I need to move the perches. So I ordered the cheapest perches I could find.  



 
So, we then hit full on thrash mode. Dallas custody hearing is this week, Steve is back from busy season, and this darn car needs to be on track ASAP if we hope to have any time to test and tune before the challenge. And I need some seat time, as im freaking rusty.  
Dad offered, before he left for vacation, to get our dash designed and made. He was able to locate and get cut a chunk of diamond plate. I think its stainless, cause its heavy as hell and a magnet doesn't stick. Its also some incredibly hard crap. Before I go much further, I need to note that we traded the autometer ultra-lights and sun tach from the car for a pair of jegs 2 5/8 gauges and a black bezel tach. Easier to read on track. So,m when dad left for vacation, he left this on the bench for me.  

After considerable time with a carbide burr, destroying drill bits, measuring, marking, and shooting with some more of that 97 cent spray paint, we get here:

While trying to figure out how to mount the darn thing, as well as the column, to the roll cage, Dallas was looking through the speedway catalog. He made a comment about pipe standoffs, and went to the supply house. He came back with allthread and apparently pipe standoffs. It worked shockingly well. We put a few wraps of duct tape around the cage to take up the slight amount of slack between the sizes. You can see the clamps and way we did it in the right corner of the picture. We did the same thing to mount the column and pedals to the cage. I couldn't figure out how to make anything I liked that would accomplish the same task.
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dusterbd13
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Re: pictures of the GRM challenge spirit project
Reply #47 - 05/02/17 at 01:30:27
 

Steve was working on cage tubes for the door bars, and Dallas gutting the doors while I was installing the dash and wiring the car.  



I apparently didn't get any pictures of door gutting, other than a really neat stamp on the passengers door. This is how the car finally got a name: Gary. We also decided that our mascot should be Gary the snail from spongebob. But we want to cross Gary the snail with the dodge rumble bee from the quarter windows of a 69 superbee. Anyone any good at photoshop?

This is where we ended that work day:





Up next was getting her to run. We got the gauges hooked up (Dallas was doing a kitchen remodel, and found a braided icemaker line that was going in the garbage as apparently they don't meet code. That, and a couple of used fittings got us a good oil pressure line for the gauge). brother Dustin, Dallas and I spent the night getting the plugs in, the oil pump primed (by hand), fluids filled, fuel leaks fixed, timing eyeballed, gas in the tank, etc. I then proceeded to fight with the starter solenoid for a few days. Finally got it fixed though....
 


Due to the starter solenoid issue it didn't fire that night (Dallas birthday). I need the lift for the miata, so I pushed the car outside and used up the last of the paint on the cage and inner doors while it was out there.  



And just because it looks badass off the lift....

So after I got the miata finished, I sorted out the starter solenoid, made throttle/kickdown prackets, tidyd up plug wires, etc.  
Then this happened.
https://youtu.be/1SU3I4QhGRA
Next is sorting out the fuel issue, breaking in the cam, bleeding the brakes, and seeing if it moves under its own power. Maybe big smoky burnout before 8.8 swap.  
 
 
 
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dusterbd13
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Re: pictures of the GRM challenge spirit project
Reply #48 - 05/10/17 at 02:58:36
 
Challenge Budget: Car/parts $200  
Donor Lincoln town car: 410  
Engine crossmember: 120  
Sold transmission crossmember from Lincoln: 10 Sold rear axle from lincoln: -50 Scrapped what was left of lincoln: -89  
trans cooler: 2  
Engine swap: 5.0 plus 300 boot  
Sold kelstar wheels-200 (cant recoup more than we spent)  
2x2 angle iron, tractor supply 12.05  
Brand new Watkins glen nascar slicks and wheels, which were bought for $50, and promptly sold to Dallas dad for $50 and some weld wheels with really old drag slicks. So, slicks were $0, but $50 taken out of the recoup limit.  
6 5/8 heim and jamb nuts, as well as threaded tube for the front suspension: $65  
Pair of aluminum seats, $40 and on;y usng 1 so $20. .  
Sheet of flame retardant high density foam $10  
Fire suppression system parts (not included in challenge budget. But ive had 2nd degree burns on the boys before, so were getting safety gear come hell or high water)  
Solid steel lowering blocks, with the holes drilled to offset the rear axle rearwards. $5  
1/4 plate, scrap metal yard: 7.50  
Mustang convertible mounts 22  
Bending plate cost 25
Swedged tubing, ebay: 31.90  
Threaded adjusters and 650lb springs, SRI performance: 65
2 used billstein shocks, pull-a-part: 14
Cage materials: 271.40
Spool welding wire: 33
Leaf spring sliders: 40
Clamps for spring adjusters: 23.59
Adjustable brake bias valve 18 (amazon)
2 cans of flat black spray paint (lowes project source) .97 ea
Half melted, used 21 circuit ez wiring harness cut from my duster after the mice chewed it up and it had a meltdown. $5 is what I was quoted as FMV due to the fact that copper prices are down.
Accessories and flexplate: see link in update
Battery cables and relays, pull-a-part: 12.75
Steering box, pull-a-part: 27.50
25feet 3/8 steel fuel line, ebay: 25.75
Bypass fuel pressure regulator, ebay: 29.23
fuel pump: 23
Used mix and match nitrous kit: 32
Used cast coat aluminum paint: 3.50 (advance price is $7 new, and the can was half empty)
Two half cans of ford engine blue $7
3/8 plastic line clamps, lowes: 1.78
1/2 metal line clamps, lowes: 3.48
Throttle return springs and brackets: 5
3/8 2x compression fittings, 3x npt-compression, 1x t fitting from plumbing supply house: 6
battery hold down, oriellys 5.99
2x 36 inch 1x1 holey tube: 2
Driveshaft safety loop (dad bought it at an auction last week) 5
Tractor supply run for bolts and angle iron: 18.08
Wheels for monster slicks: 50 from facebook marketplace
Shifter material (going to retain the 7.50 number for now, unsure of what fair market value for this stuff would be)
Lower radiator hose: 14.82
Crimping a splice in power steering hose: 13.69
Oil filter: 4.17
Bucket of hose clamps (pull-a-part doesn't charge for these, so I added the admission charge to the yard): 1
Scrap chunk of 16gauge sheetmetal: .25
Suspension and 3.73 posi 8.8, offerup: 100
Traded ultralights and sun tach for  pro-tach, mechanical 2 5/8 gauges and chunk of diamond plate from a 4x4 buggy guy down the street
Rear brake hose: Challenge budget exempt
Spark plug boot insulators, ebay, 11
Spring perches, amazon 17.49
Pipe standoffs (5) and 3/8 allthread, rhulens supply 8.22
Chunk of diamond plate: unknown. dad scrounged it somewhere, and said he got got for free. I just dont know where, or if I need to FMV it.
Misc crap (zipties, sheet metal screws, wiring terminals, used toggles, nuts and bolts, etc. Pretty much the little oddball crap that goes into every build that I had laying around from over the years) 50
Starter solenoid: 12ish (placeholder till I find the receipt or a cheaper one)
2 inch glasspacks, chunks of 2 inch exhaust tubing, and a little bit of stainless 2 inch: steves buddy: 15
Tow hook: 3?
Steering wheel from swap meet 5
Quick release, ebay: 19.99
New challenge budget total: 1774.57
Ok, when last we left off, it was running with fuel system problems. In the course of troubleshooting, I killed my cheap used pump. Son of a....
So a new fuel pump is in the budget, and the problem was that of the TWO filters that were in the car when I bought it, the one I grabbed was defective. The seal where the two halves of the case were crimped was leaking air, not allowing the pump to generate suction for prime. Before I found this, I tried everything else, including relocating the pump lower. It stayed lower after the fix. I'm going to try to pull the dead pump apart and fix it. Well see if im successful, as it would be nice to take money back out of the budget.  

We also built an exhaust. Due to the constraints of the trans crossmember, driveshaft safety loop, etc, we decided it would be easiest and best to do sidepipes. Steve bought a pair of used glasspacks and some 2 inch tubing from a co-worker that changed his design, and scrounged a couple of chunks of 2 inch stainless. We used bends from the old x-pipe 2.5 system,  cut, welded, and hammer-fit until we got an exhaust. There were a couple of hangars we cut off the car when doing seam welding that we repaired and reused as well.
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dusterbd13
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Re: pictures of the GRM challenge spirit project
Reply #49 - 05/10/17 at 02:59:46
 




While Steve was doing this, I was working on tire to fender clearance, and parts pile consolidation. Figured it was time to radius. I almost felt bad cutting these fenders up. Almost.  
I also added the prototype tow hook dad had made for his c4 race car. He gave it to us, and I really wanted to add it. So its located on the passengers side through the front valance, and retained with the bolts that hold the idler arm to the frame. The next morning, since I needed the lift, I pushed the car outside. I also washed it, as this darn thing got me dirty just looking at it.  



Next day we worked on this was Sunday. What started as getting the old axle squared up enough for a test drive (iso-clamps wore out, and allowed it to shift around) turned into getting the 8.8 in, shortening the driveshaft another inch and changing the rear yoke to the explorer one, building custom leaf springs, and ....
The short of it is, the explorer axle at stock width is almost designed for this. The factory explorer spring perches line up almost exactly with the inside of the factory AMC leaves. Which means that when you add the spring perches, you can just sit them directly outboard of explorer perches, and the axle is square and centered up in the car. Problem here is that there's no room to get u-bolts down by the explorer perches. Notch the corners, flap wheel a little bit, and bobs your uncle. I also took the time to build higher rate leaves. I used the mail leaf from the AMC with the axle pin hole bored out a little bit, and the two main leaves from the explorer. The big fat bottom leaf from the explorer was left out, and the top leaf was as well. The explorer second leaf lines up almost exactly with the front spring eye of the AMC leaf, which should be very effective for combating wheel hop. I used the explorer axle plates underneath, the explorer u-bolts, and plan to adapt some used bilstiens from the scrap pile (took them off my elky after 10k and threw them away, as they are about dead. They were used when I bough them from the junkyard 4 years ago...) another note is that with the stock width explorer axle, the front and rear track widths are now exactly equal. I didn't plan that, but ill take it!
Anyway, heres pictured of the finished product.  




While we were buttoning up the rear end, Dallas and the new teammates came by. He got majority custody of all three kids. Which is the greatest thing to happen in this entire build thread. Honestly, I could kill the project here, and still call it a complete success as he stayed sane and emotionally stable throughout the whole ugly mess. That was the overall goal when I started the team, even greater than going to the challenge or becoming internet famous.  
That being said, we added his three kids to the team. His oldest (Sparrow) was the dedicated lug nut installer .

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Re: pictures of the GRM challenge spirit project
Reply #50 - 05/10/17 at 03:00:59
 
She also wanted to model the new smaller steering wheel and quick release setup.  

This was made from the 5 dollar grant wheel from the swap meet, the cheapest splined quick release ebay had to offer, and a chunk of an old s10 steering wheel. Problem I ran into was that the quick release is 6 bolt, 2hich nothing else is. Except a trashed s10 steering wheel from a first gen s10 has a 6 bolt chunk in it that can be removed. Then throw it in a bench vice, bend it around a good bit to change the spacing of the 6 bolts, and bolt the quick release to it. The splines of the s10 wheel fit the AMC perfect, ironically enough. I suspected it was a gm sourced column, and apparently I was right. Anyway, the grant wheel was 5 bolt, not six. So, I eyeballed it square, marked the holes, and drilled it for the 6 bolt pattern in through bolt style. It works. Makes the steering wheel too close to the driver, and makes it where we can move the seat back a few more inches, helping weight distribution. So, overall ill call it a win.  
Last thing we really did is watch Steve be a freaking Leonardo davinci. He took bits and pieces from the scrap metal bin, some bolts, a grinder, and a welder and MADE perfect adjustable mounts for a backbrace to the cage. The dude is freaking macgyver mixed with Einstein. I don't know how he sees this stuff in his head and just makes it. Absolutely amazing to see.  

 
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Re: pictures of the GRM challenge spirit project
Reply #51 - Yesterday at 01:34:54
 
Challenge Budget: Car/parts $200  
Donor Lincoln town car: 410  
Engine crossmember: 120  
Sold transmission crossmember from Lincoln: 10 Sold rear axle from lincoln: -50 Scrapped what was left of lincoln: -89  
Sold AOD from lincoln (300, but can only recoup 261)
Engine swap: 5.0 plus 300 boot  
Sold kelstar wheels-200 (cant recoup more than we spent)  
2x2 angle iron, tractor supply 12.05  
Brand new Watkins glen nascar slicks and wheels, which were bought for $50, and promptly sold to Dallas dad for $50 and some weld wheels with really old drag slicks. So, slicks were $0, but $50 taken out of the recoup limit.  
6 5/8 heim and jamb nuts, as well as threaded tube for the front suspension: $65  
Pair of aluminum seats, $40 and on;y usng 1 so $20. .  
Sheet of flame retardant high density foam $10  
Fire suppression system parts (not included in challenge budget. But ive had 2nd degree burns on the boys before, so were getting safety gear come hell or high water)  
1/4 plate, scrap metal yard: 7.50  
Mustang convertible mounts 22  
Bending plate cost 25
Swedged tubing, ebay: 31.90  
Threaded adjusters and 650lb springs, SRI performance: 65
2 used billstein shocks, pull-a-part: 14
Cage materials: 271.40
Spool welding wire: 33
Leaf spring sliders: 40
Clamps for spring adjusters: 23.59
Adjustable brake bias valve 18 (amazon)
2 cans of flat black spray paint (lowes project source) .97 ea
Half melted, used 21 circuit ez wiring harness cut from my duster after the mice chewed it up and it had a meltdown. $5 is what I was quoted as FMV due to the fact that copper prices are down.
Accessories and flexplate: see link in update
Battery cables and relays, pull-a-part: 12.75
Steering box, pull-a-part: 27.50
25feet 3/8 steel fuel line, ebay: 25.75
Bypass fuel pressure regulator, ebay: 29.23
fuel pump: 23
Used mix and match nitrous kit: 32
Two half cans of ford engine blue $7
3/8 plastic line clamps, lowes: 1.78
1/2 metal line clamps, lowes: 3.48
Throttle return springs and brackets: 5
3/8 2x compression fittings, 3x npt-compression, 1x t fitting from plumbing supply house: 6
battery hold down, oriellys 5.99
2x 36 inch 1x1 holey tube: 2
Driveshaft safety loop (dad bought it at an auction last week) 5
Tractor supply run for bolts and angle iron: 18.08
Wheels for monster slicks: 50 from facebook marketplace
Lower radiator hose: 14.82
Crimping a splice in power steering hose: 13.69
Oil filter: 4.17
Bucket of hose clamps (pull-a-part doesn't charge for these, so I added the admission charge to the yard): 1
Scrap chunk of 16gauge sheetmetal: .25
Suspension and 3.73 posi 8.8, offerup: 100
Traded ultralights and sun tach for  pro-tach, mechanical 2 5/8 gauges and chunk of diamond plate from a 4x4 buggy guy down the street
Rear brake hose: Challenge budget exempt
Spark plug boot insulators, ebay, 11
Spring perches, amazon 17.49
Pipe standoffs (5) and 3/8 allthread, rhulens supply 8.22
Chunk of diamond plate: unknown. dad scrounged it somewhere, and said he got got for free. I just dont know where, or if I need to FMV it.
Misc crap (zipties, sheet metal screws, wiring terminals, used toggles, nuts and bolts, etc. Pretty much the little oddball crap that goes into every build that I had laying around from over the years) 50
Starter solenoid: 12ish (placeholder till I find the receipt or a cheaper one)
2 inch glasspacks, chunks of 2 inch exhaust tubing, and a little bit of stainless 2 inch: steves buddy: 15
Tow hook: 3?
Steering wheel from swap meet 5
Quick release, ebay: 19.99
Manual trans: 50
Flywheel: 45
2 dog leases 1.98
2 u joints: 21.98
2 u joint straps 5.99
Clutch kit, clutch master, clutch slave: 107.13 shipped
Power steering hose: 15.99
3/8 coupler: 2.50
Welding: 5
Alternator plugs: 2
New challenge budget total: 1753.14
In this installment of challenge car insanity. I break lots of stuff and get screwed/saved/come out slightly ahead.  
A little housekeeping first. On another forum, the comment was made that our scrap pile seems a little too convenient to be true. Like im lying/cheating. Which im not. This scrap pile has been collecting for a couple of years now, as scrap was down, we were busy, etc. There’s probably 3 houses, and 8 or 9 cars worth of nuts in these piles. But I wanted to take photographic proof to prove that I am just that darned lucky.  






 
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Re: pictures of the GRM challenge spirit project
Reply #52 - Yesterday at 01:35:56
 
First up, our last challenge car night together didn't go according to plan. We had carb issues, running issues, etc. To the point where we hydro-locked the engine when the cab bowl on the primaries overfilled. But before we get there, ill back up a smidge.
We started the night with a short list. Check plugs and headers for tightness. Bleed brakes. Install a lap belt. Install lights. Get running and idling. Test drive. Simple, right?
Right. Sure. Go ahead and laugh now, because you and I both know it aint never that easy.  
So, we put Dallas on headers and plugs, me on wiring, Steve on Steve stuff. Dallas took three hours to get the 5 missing header bolts in and the spark plugs on the drivers side tight. Its not that Dallas is incompetant or lazy, its just that dad gum difficult to get to ANYTHING on the drivers side. Especially with the spark plugs being angled, the headers made for a different set of heads, and the steering column being essentially through the primaries in between the two. But he got it done.  
While he was doing that, I was doing wiring. Installed the alternator plugs stampie scored for me (2 bucks at his junkyard), hooked up the headlights and spotlights that came with the car, hooked up the side markers and such as well. Still don't have brake lights, but im not sure why. Haven't really looked yet either, which you will see why shortly.  
Heres pictures of the lighting. You can also see out tow hook better.  

While we were doing this, Steve was nut and bolt checking things, servicing the fire bottles, and making a dash cap out of gas flue from the scrap pile. Im pretty sure that the flue came from a rental house rehab in china grove, but don't quote me on that.  

We also spent an inordinate amount of time and brake fluid to finally get the brakes bled. And ate the paint off the trans tunnel. But we got that done. And the leaks fixed. Which meant it was time for a test drive!
Except it wouldn't idle. Or run consistently. While I was in drivers seat monitoring gauges and keeping it living, Dallas and Steve were setting timing (by ear, as there is no freaking way to actually get a light on the pointer on the drivers side, and the passengers side pointer has no corresponding marks on the balancer) setting float level, trying to bring the idle down from 2k, etc. Fought us every step of the way, and then overheated. Joy. While we had the key running for the fan to cool it off, we noticed the strong smell of gas. Discovered that the primary bowl vent was spewing gas even after we lowered the float the whole way. Hydro-locked the engine. Done for the night.  
Next day, I drained the oil, changed the filter, and pulled the needle and seat to see if it was stuck. It was. With this.

After that, got the float set. Then, found out TV cable was causing the engine to hang at 2k by not letting the throttle blade close completely. Little bending of the bracket cured that. Added another 1/2 gallon of coolant, and overheating issue went away. Replaced the fragged rear u joint, finished filling the trans with fluid, and began to bleed the power steering system. Promptly blew our hose splice all over the shop. Done for the day.  
This should be simple, right? Well, its not. Late model o ring jeep box, mid 90s ford pump. No way to get there from here off the shelf, or cheaply. What I wound up doing was buying a new jeep hose (15.99 orielly) and a 3/8 inverted female flare fitting (2.50) the plan was to flare the metal ends and make a replaceable fitting. Except when I got the ford fitting out, there wasn't enough left to flare. Solution was to have a chunk of 3/8 fuel line welded to it. So I called my local welding guy sonny. He said to bring my pieces over. For 5 bucks, he used some sort of silver welding rod and oxy-acetaline and had it done in less time than it took to type. While waiting for one of his machines to finish a pistol part. He actually gave me my 5 bucks back when I helped him find his chuck key for his big lathe.
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Re: pictures of the GRM challenge spirit project
Reply #53 - Yesterday at 01:36:58
 




We also got our inside door latched sorted out. Dollar store dog leashes. The little buckle even fit through the factory linkage hole with slight grinding. Works perfect! Steve is again mcgyver.  

So after all this it was time for the test drive of glory. To say I was excited is an understatement. I about pissed myself with glee.  
Got in, fired it up, shifted into reverse, and nothing. Stood on the brakes, revved the piss out of it, still nothing. Added fluid. Nothing. Added more fluid. Nothing. Changed the filter. Nothing. Son of a.....
So I pulled the trans. Turns out when we re-installed it we somehow missed the torque converter engagement and destroyed the front pump. Screwed is an understatement. Discouraged and frustrated is an understatement. Walked away for a few days, talked to some people to see what options we have, etc.  
Guy at church offered me a trade. A 79 ford longbed with a 302 and 3 on the floor for our dead trans. Seems his one work truck has a bad valve body, and he needs one. Ours was presumably fine (hes a ford guy), and the rest of the trans good as well based upon fluid, previous drive experiences when it was in the Lincoln, etc. His plan was to drop the ford off with us, grab the trans, replace the pump, and put it in his work truck. The longbed he got for free, as a guy he used to rent a building to left it there. 5 years ago. He was going to scrap it, so instead he planned to trade it to us.  
Well, no plan of battle ever survives contact with the enemy.  
His grandson, who has a 77 ford longbed 4x4, got sideswiped in a hit and run. Grandson had liability only. So, family first. Cant blame the guy. But he wound up giving us 300 for the trans, as that was still cheaper than he could find a known good one for, or even the valvebody he needed. Which left us with enough money in the budget for a trans, but no trans.  
Dad came to the rescue. From his RV in Colorado, he found a 3 hour old listing for a ford 302 3 speed trans in Roanoke Virginia for 50 bucks. Supposedly rebuilt, with floor shifter and bellhousing. Jumped in the truck, drove to Roanoke and back in about 7 hours, and picked it up. Then discovered that it was a fixed yoke from a longbed, and did not have a 302 bell. It had a 390 bell. Managed to trade the 390 bell to Gary at city salvage for the 302 bell. Bought a 302 flywheel from craigslist for 45 bucks. In a stroke of good fortune, it all plays nicely together! Even the bloackplate, inspection cover, and starter from the AOD fit!  



The next hurdle is getting the clutch actuation worked out. In 1980, AMC used a hydraulic clutch setup in the 4cyl spirits. We still have a clutch pedal. So, when I ordered my clutch kit from rockauto, I ordered that setup. Should work with minor fab. We also need to add the splined section from the explorer driveshaft to the current hybrid shaft. Making this the 4th configuration of driveshaft with the car never leaving the lift. Hopefully,though, at the end of the holiday weekend it will be moving under its own power. Assuming all our parts get here on time, and it goes according to plan. Ha!
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