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Isky Camshafts (Read 5505 times)
firecapt321
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Isky Camshafts
06/24/08 at 13:01:06
 
Does anyone have any experience with Isky Racing Camshafts?? Looking at the 270H kit and was just wondering how they stood up to Crane cams. Thanks, JP
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Re: Isky Camshafts
Reply #1 - 06/24/08 at 14:03:27
 
When I built my 360 I had an unusual situation of low compression and a hi stall converter. I called all the major companies and Isky was the only one to ask me the appropriate questions to get to just the right cam for me. It turned out to be a custom grind and it was only 140.00 to my door.  
 Top notch I say. Made just the power I was looking for.  Unfortunatly they do not make solid cams for AMC I had to go with Camcraft for the custom cam in my 01. But I plan to use this same cam in my SC build up.
 
 Davis
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Re: Isky Camshafts
Reply #2 - 06/24/08 at 16:15:45
 
They don't make solid lifter cams?  
I have a Isky 251/254 .560 solid lifter cam in my 401.  
I bought it in 2004 so maybe they don't make them anymore?
When I ordered it, the cam was something the guy there came up with. He was  
very knowledgable and helpful.  It didn't seem like he pulled a grind out of his
training manual like when I called Comp.  
 
I would buy from Isky again.
 
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Re: Isky Camshafts
Reply #3 - 06/24/08 at 16:17:10
 
Years ago I had a Isky 505 solid grind ground onto a stock AMC cam. The car litterly flew. Isky must be doing something right. Wish I had this cam today. Garry
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Re: Isky Camshafts
Reply #4 - 06/24/08 at 21:22:33
 
Sorry guys, not understanding all the solid mumbo jumbo, once again over my head embarrassed. If you go to http://www.flatlanderracing.com/     scroll down to camshafts, pick Isky Racing Cams, and then click on AMC, I am looking at the 270 H for my 401, is this a good cam??? Is this a solid cam and what is a solid cam? Sorry, but still a noob.
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Re: Isky Camshafts
Reply #5 - 06/24/08 at 22:40:12
 
I had an Isky 270 H(L) cam in my 1969 AMX. I wanted some thing close to stock , but not any thing radical. The stock AMC cam is listed at 266 degrees duration at .425 lift. Some of the 290/343 factory cams listed as only 263 degrees duration. The Isky cam is listed at 270 degrees duration on intake and exhaust with .470 or .475 lift. Duration is 4 degrees more then a stock AMC cam with about 0.050 inch more lift. I have power brakes and had a Borg Warner M-12 on the car. Both require vacuum and not a radical high overlap  cam. The Isky 270 H was listed as an RV cam back in the day I bought it about 25 years ago. If you want some thing that not a street / strip cam with a lot of low end and mid range torque and horse power it's fine. I think the version I had was the 270 HL that's list farther down on the flatlander racing site. It helps a lot to know intended use and engine size. I can't compare it to a crane cam , as I never had a crane cam in any of my cars. Reportedly Crane makes all the AMC cam blanks for all the cam manufacturers. Comp cams are very well thought of among AMC people. I personnelly like a split duration cam with more duration on the exhaust side. I using a Edelbrock performer cam which my 390  this time around, with 278/288 duration and .448/.472  lift. Still a fairly mild STREET/strip cam in my book. We'll see how it works.  LRDaum
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Re: Isky Camshafts
Reply #6 - 06/24/08 at 23:27:17
 
H = hydraulic - uses engine oil pressure against a little piston (plunger) in the lifter to take up valve train clearance (lash)  
S = solid - no plunger, requires clearance (valve lash) to ensure the valves are fully closed when the lifter is on the base circle of the cam - more aggressive lobe profiles
HR = hydraulic roller - hydraulic with a roller on the bottom of the lifter to reduce friction and allows more aggressive cam lobe profiles
R = solid roller - solid with a roller lifter (generally most aggressive and not used on the street ... well ... sometimes ... Wink)
 
When comparing duration, look at the 0.050" number, not the seat duration - especially with hydraulic cams.  It doesn't tell the whole story, but more accurate than comparing seat duration.  Some cam companies rate a hydraulic cam's seat duration at 0.004" lift, some 0.006", etc. ... and a comparable solid tends to have 5 - 10 deg. more @ 0.050" duration than a hydraulic cam and usually makes more power.  The Edelbrock performer cam is mild.  Not a strip cam.  Good for a slight bump in performance and gas mileage, OK for a daily driver 304 or 360 (or that nice 390 cruiser).  The Isky 270H (216/216 @0.050") looks like a decent street cam and more aggressive than the Edelbrock (it's 204/214 @0.050").  Need more details on your application and your goals and those more experienced will chime in.  Thanks, RD.
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Re: Isky Camshafts
Reply #7 - 06/25/08 at 00:23:39
 
RD, I understand, its going in my 401 with 9.5 compression custom forged pistons, 502 heads, backed by 727 and amc 20 posi, I am shooting for a strong street motor with a combination of lopey idle yet still friendly for the weekend street and interstate cruiser. I know one person previously said go with comp cams, that is what I had all lined up and then my machine shop engine builders said, absolutely not, they wont even install a comp cam. They said they will either custom grind one,$$$$$$$$ crane, or isky. That is  why I am asking. If you need more info on motor I will do my best to provide more info. Oh yea, plan on going with 2400 stall, but obviously that is  still weighing on the cam decision. Was originally going with 270H Comp Cam kit until shop said no, so I need to find equivalent, that preferrably comes in complete kit.
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Re: Isky Camshafts
Reply #8 - 06/25/08 at 03:35:41
 
I would change engine builders.
 
I have used NASCAR level shops and even they wouldn't dictate my cam brand to me. There is NOTHING wrong with comp cams. I'm not terribly impressed with them, but they make quality cams. You are paying him to build your engine not HIS engine. If he won't use the cam you want, someone else will.
 
I used Lunati in the past, but Holley has sold the company. I would use the GRIND you want regardless of brand name.  
 
With ALL cam brand, degree them in. I just degreed a cam that had to be installed 4 degrees advanced to meet the designated timing events on the card. It was a Melling boxed version of the Edelbrock Performer RPM (234/244 @ .050). There are only a few companies making cam blanks and the other buy their blanks and then grind them to the spec they want. Some companies (like edelbrock) buy their cams already ground and box them in Edelbrock packaging. Nothing wrong with this, but it's the reason they have such a limited selection of cams. They also choose proven grinds.
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Re: Isky Camshafts
Reply #9 - 06/25/08 at 04:46:08
 
when I was building my 01 I called isky cause i was so happy with the first cam. They said the were not getting the solid amc blanks naymore so no solid cams from them cry This was about 2 years ago.  
 The hydrolic I have if mem serves.... is 236 dur @ .050 and .540 lift with 106 or 108 LSA  
 
 If you want the best cam for your build you need to CALL the Cam companies armed with your compression ratio, head flow #'s, stall speed, transmission, rear gears, and tire size. They will also want to know weight of car with you in it, and projected ET or HP  
 
 Most companies will try to sell you a cam off the shelf not necssarily the cam for your engine.  
 
 But you can speculate all day ... start making calls and ask the cam companies these same questions your asking here.
 
 You will get an education Cool
 Davis
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Re: Isky Camshafts
Reply #10 - 06/25/08 at 14:04:41
 
Thanks Davis!!! Grin Education??? I feel like I am back in calculus!!!! Wink Cheesy
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Re: Isky Camshafts
Reply #11 - 06/25/08 at 14:18:21
 
I recently bought a custom ground cam from Reed.  Not too different from their catalog, but I wanted to try a few things.  They were very helpful, since I spec'd it myself I won't have anybody to blame...but basically they sure seemed to know what they are doing.  Engle also has some interesting grinds that take advantage of the larger AMC lifter diameter, but they weren't as easy to deal with.  Reed also offers a lifter with a hole "EDM'ed" in the lifter face for lobe oiling.  The AMC version doesn't show up in the on line catalog, but I got them.  Good advice is to call and talk to the cam manufacturer.  I have run Crower cams for everthing for a long time, and always was satisfied with the tech support that is available over the phone.  Whether you ask the cam company, your machine shop, or your internet forum, be ready to describe what you really want and what else you will have in your motor.
Good luck,
Ralfy
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Re: Isky Camshafts
Reply #12 - 06/25/08 at 16:58:09
 
Personally, in this particular case, I'd suggest going with an "off-the-shelf" cam. Why?
 
You're not looking for anything radical and really want a basic cam for cruising. I understand you want a little extra "peppa" for some fun, but you're not looking for anything that has to do this certain thing exactly then with a 5,000 RPM stall converter and steep gears. You just want a decent cam and there's plenty of them out there.
 
If you call up a cam company and tell them exactly what you're looking for, I'm sure they can recommend a good off-the-shelf cam. I'm sure at this point you don't know what your heads flow, what ET you want to be running, or how much HP you want to make. You could be making 200 HP and love it as it's totally drive-able and fun or 500 HP that is a handful on the street and not that enjoyable to you.
 
And by an off-the-shelf cam, it doesn't have to be a Comp or Crane, pretty much any of the cam companies have something that would work. I know Engle does as I called them before about one of their in stock cams and ended up speaking to the owner (he answered the phone).
 
I agree about finding another shop. You're spending YOUR money and their building YOUR motor. If you tell them you want to run something, they should just do it. They can offer advise or guidance, but inevitably, it's YOUR choice. Comp cams are as good as any big cam manufacturer is going to be. I don't think I've heard of really ANY problems with ANY cam manufacturer. Did they give a reason to why they don't like them? Just curious.
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Re: Isky Camshafts
Reply #13 - 06/25/08 at 17:13:14
 
Oh yeah, they gave several reasons but to be honest, my noob butt didnt understand a thing they were saying, and dont get me wrong, they were not jerks about it by any means, they are really nice guys and obviously stand strong behind engines that have their name on em. They simply said that they had never used comp before till a couple years ago and they used them a couple times back to back and both engines, one was a street motor and one was a drag motor and both of them failed due to cam related issues, again I apologize cause I dont remember nor would I understand the specifics they gave. With that being said I dont want to give these guys a bad rap cause they are very well known and highly regarded as engine builders, especially in the Outlaw Sprint world, and have been very accomodating to all my ideas that I have received from this forum and have only offered advice except when it came to the cam. They also do not require for me to purchase from their shop, they give suggestions and say if I can find it cheaper, by all means, and they are also letting me help assemble motor with them right beside me so I can learn, so personally, all things being considered, I feel they are a jam up engine machine shop. But trying my best to combine your guys awesome feedback and their suggestions I am probably going with the 270H Isky cam kit at this time. I am to the point where I have to make a decision or this thing will never get built! Wink And in the end, if its not right, I can always go back and change it right. I really appreciate all your guys' help. Thanks, JP
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Re: Isky Camshafts
Reply #14 - 06/25/08 at 23:06:06
 
Your engine builder probably lost the two Comp cam engines because almost all the zinc and moly additives have been taken out of the oil. There was a time in recent years  , when it was not widely known that the zinc and moly had been taken out and it cause a lot of engine failures. Even the shell diesel oil Rotella has had most of the zinc and molly taken out. So to break in your new engine you need an oil additive package. Your engine builder should know, what I'm talking about. One of guys in our local club here in Vegas  with a 70 AMX he just had redone lost his engine at 1600 miles due to metal on metal contact. He used the diesel oil too, but too late all the moly and zinc had been taken out. GM and Mopar both have additive oils with extra zinc and moly older engines need. I believe GM calls there EPO engine treatment and assembly lube. The new engine don't need the zinc and moly as most are roller lifter or Over head cam. Older engine do need it as the cam and lifter can have metal to metal contact. You need the oil additives though the first several oil changes until the engine is broken in. LRDaum
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