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Grafting Mopar Victor 383 to AMC RPM Air-Gap (Read 35808 times)
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Re: Grafting Mopar Victor 383 to AMC RPM Air-Gap
Reply #120 - 05/29/17 at 01:27:33
 
Installed and degreed the cam today. Installed straight up, well almost. It’s retarded .5 degree. .850” / .825” gross. .026” / .026” lash. .500” lobe lift w/ 55mm journals.  
 
Short-block...done!
Heads & Intake manifold(s)....done!
Oil pan...done!  
 
Ishihara - Johnson teflon crank scrapper...wrong part sent to me. They sent 2-bolt main instead of 4-bolt main. Waiting for replacement so I can custom fit and then wrap up the bottom end.  
 
Off on vacation next. 30th Wedding Anniversary. Then back home and hopefully wrap this engine all up. Only parts I need to order are Manton Pushrods once I get the valve-train sorted for pushrod final length.
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Re: Grafting Mopar Victor 383 to AMC RPM Air-Gap
Reply #121 - 05/29/17 at 23:08:08
 
Could not use the DigiCam for degree’ing in the cam as the crank post adapter keyway broach was not deep enough. So went back to the old way. Altronics (maker of DigiCam), will fix the issue and I’ll double check my work. It’s a sweet way to degree a cam. I used it to find TDC, just to see how it worked as I found a woodruff key to use. But the woodruff key I found was not long enough to accommodate with the crank gear and the DigiCam adapter.  
 
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Re: Grafting Mopar Victor 383 to AMC RPM Air-Gap
Reply #122 - 08/27/17 at 20:22:51
 
Been awhile since I posted. Took two-week vacation to Florida which included a cruise with the wife and 4 teenage kids. Somebody sent me a PM asking about progress so let me see what I can do to wrap it up to this point....hopefully will have engine installed this week??? Not that I’ve been able to keep this project on schedule in the past so let’s just see what I can do.  
 
Last post I see I degreed the cam and had it @ 112* ICL on a 112* LSA; to which almost nobody liked!  
 
Then, after decreeing in the cam, using a pair of no-taper 3/8” pushrods I had in inventory, I installed the new Manton Stage IV super-duper 7/16” to 3/8” single taper pushrods. Knowing I had adequate P/V clearance (using clay), I installed the Manton’s on the #1 cylinder and rotated the engine and “SNAP” the #1 intake lifter broke at the tower (whatever that’s called; supports the link). No, I did not check the pushrod to button head screw for the link at all points. I did check the clearance at the base circle and +.100” lift and called it “good”. Turns out there are two versions of the T&D shaft rocker system. I have V1. V1 has the proper geometry for the strongest rocker arm. The downside is the clearance on the pushrod gets tighter as the lifter goes up. I have a .500” lobe so that is a lot of lift.  
FYI - V2 has this issue corrected at the expense of a weaker rocker arm. Thanks to Adkins for that education! V1 is best for my application. So...I spent $195 for a new pair of Crower lifters. Then, as advised by Adkins, I ground down every button head screw for clearance. In the end, there was not enough clearance on the pushrods to button head screw at upper lifts. Yea...there went $520 down the drain for the pushrods! Ordered a set of Manton Stage IV 3/8” .148” wall pushrods and they pretty much didn’t want me to go to Trend (because I’m not made of money!) so I got the next set for about $225.
 
Got the new 3/8” pushrods in a few days. and installed a pair on #1. Rotated the engine by hand, plenty of clearance. Maybe not plenty, but enough. Like .005” at the tightest point. See why you would not want a flex-pushrod? Next, I installed the remaining pushrods and rocker assemblies. Rotated the engine for the 1st time with all race springs, rockers, etc. I then went to adjust valves. Something is wrong. At TDC #1 the intake is always open and the exhaust isn’t moving. Rotate the engine some more, same deal. I look at the cam gear and the slot is here and the keyway there! Yes, after going to NAPA Auto for keys, I find these are generic hardware store items like you would use on the shop fan. And as with the pushrod clearance, dodged another bullet. Imagine if these two issues would have occurred with the starter engaged? Found McMaster Tool sells heat treated keys with 122,000# tensile strength and bought what I needed. Installed and work / fit perfect. Ended up advancing the cam to 109* ICL.  
 
Spent at least 3-weeks waiting on the custom teflon crank-scraper as Kevin Johnson had serious illness. Finally got both sides and spent a good 1/2 day installing and trimming to proper clearance. The Passenger side is a 3-piece assembly with the teflon sandwiched in the middle and secured with a bunch of little studs (welded to the bottom or block side piece). Timing cover is now installed.  
 
Yesterday I spent most of the day grinding on my custom oil pan which has a passenger side kick-out that extends well beyond the block’s pan rail. Three of the mounting holes in the pan go through tubes and the block has been drilled for unique bolt pattern of a the pan. Just a couple but it is outside the box from typical AMC. I had to grind clearance for the scrapper nuts. That was a real pain. And then...after spending the day clearanc'ing, I find I can clear the nuts but the pan still won’t drop down all the way to the block due to the oil pan rail (passenger side) will not clear the top section of the scraper. The pan flange on passenger side is wider than stock; not only due to the kick-out but it goes to the inside (inboard of the block pan rail) more than OEM. If I wanted it nice & pretty, I would need \a Bridgeport to clearance the oil pan flange. Or down and dirty maybe just a saber saw. I don’t know. What I believe is the scrapper is probably worth around 5 HP and the oil pan maybe 20 HP. So last night, before calling it a day, off came the scraper.  
 
At this point, oil pan will be on tomorrow. Then all that is needed is the water pump, engine plate, crank-trigger, install Master Lube oil reservoir and Clear View Filter to engine plate and build oil lines. Intake manifold and all that other stuff is done.  
 
On the intake manifold, I don’t know if I mentioned it but I decided to start with the Victor 383 as the Victor EFI is not back from Adkins (getting ported) and when you put any of these two home brewed intakes next to the Torker, I just know the Torker is a waste of time. Will I try it someday? Yes, as I really want to know. But I am actually trying to make a race September 16. At the rate I work on the car, doubtful; but possible. It will require me getting the engine / trans in the car this week and finding a back road where I can load the engine enough to seat in the clutch and the piston skirt coating; which is a must on the engine before WOT usage. I did coat the intake with a titanium looking color which is a heat dispersing coating. I liked it so much I also did the same on the sheet metal valve covers and oil pan. Next page.
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Re: Grafting Mopar Victor 383 to AMC RPM Air-Gap
Reply #123 - 08/27/17 at 20:34:39
 
Block and heads were previously coated in same color. Timing cover is NOS OEM and I left it natural.  
I installed this anti-vibration carb isolator http://www.lyonsperformance.com/4150-carb-vibration-isolator-p-1346.html
I have also installed the 780 VS Holley (QFT copy) in order to break in the engine as it is a more reliable carb than the Autolite in terms of needle & seat issues. The Holley is IHRA legal and the race I’m trying to make recognizes both NHRA & IHRA specs as it is a local Stock/Super Stock Association. I only wish the QFT carb was not that bling finish but that was the NHRA required part when that was a legal replacement part (no longer valid).  
 
Here is the new filter http://www.clearviewfiltration.com I got the 4” black unit that accepts a screw on filter. Yes, with the Master Lube system and this Clear View Filter you can say I am paranoid about the engines oiling and internal condition!  
 
I need to figure out the easiest way to load pics from my computer to this board thanks to that Photobucket disaster.
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Re: Grafting Mopar Victor 383 to AMC RPM Air-Gap
Reply #124 - 09/02/17 at 04:58:33
 
Oil pan installed and I was able to use bullet nosed studs on all locations but one. Had to use a regular bolt there.  
Starter installed. I can install my headers without removing the starter.  
 
Mocked up the passenger header. it clears the bulk-head fittings for the external pick-up by about .050”!
 
Since the custom oil pan (which I bought used and had to modify as it was set-up for drivers side starter and drivers side external pick-up) covers the area where the second external oil line is connected (where the machine tooling is referenced at the factory), I am relegated to only one external line. Will fix that on the next engine block and next oil pan which I will design. But for now, this is going to have to work.  
On top of that, I am forced into running a -12 line out of the sump and it will have to reduce to a -10 lone as it enters the Bulltear 534 adapter. Why? Because a -12 fitting will not clear the corner of the oil pan; the corner that also covers that blank hole used for machining.  
In the morning going over to the hose store and see what is available for an inline reducer from -12 to -10.
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Re: Grafting Mopar Victor 383 to AMC RPM Air-Gap
Reply #125 - 09/06/17 at 06:20:20
 
Lets see if I can upload a picture from Imgur:
 
 
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Re: Grafting Mopar Victor 383 to AMC RPM Air-Gap
Reply #126 - 09/06/17 at 06:53:04
 
Ok....got that figured out! Here are some pictures to update and make up for lost pictures from PhotoBucketofCrap
 
This is the anti-vibration carb spacer:

 
Mounts like this:

 
With IHRA approved Holley:

 

 
Victor 383 installed on engine:

 
New oil pan. Bought used from Bobby Shahan in AR:
Driver’s side. Sight glass for oil level. 7 quarts at top of glass.  

 
Passenger side with kick-out:

 
Notice the kick-out covers the right front corner of the block along the pan rail (of the block). Because of this, I can not run the second external oil line from the swinging pickup. Bad planning on my part. However, I did talk to somebody the other day who has run his AMC’s both ways and he thinks there is cavitation issues with running dual lines. After a long talk with him, makes sense.  
 

 
And this is my oil line routing out of the sump. I used a -12 bulkhead connector at the sump, then a -12 45* to a -12 120*, followed by a -12 to a -10 reducer with the -10 line finishing the job to the Bulltear 534 adapter. Why did I go to a -10 line? Because the kick-out would not allow a -12 fitting to fit the oil pan kick-out.  

 
And my new oil filter:

 
Routing of the oil lines to the filter:

 
MasterLube on motor plate along with MSD coil. You would think I would have switched the coil with the tank but the 3qt tank would not fit the taper of the plate. Plus, the steering box is there below the plate on that end.  

 
Ordered today; and hopefully the last part I’m in need of, a smaller diameter (6.25”) crank-trigger wheel as my previously used 8” wheel will not clear the Meizere water pump adapter plate due to the motor plate pushing everything forward. It will be here in two days. In the mean time, I’m ready to prime the engine while on the stand. I also need to fix or replace break lines before I drop the engine in.
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Re: Grafting Mopar Victor 383 to AMC RPM Air-Gap
Reply #127 - 09/16/17 at 03:56:21
 
DONE! Finished off the engine today. Crank trigger is set up. Oil pressure was 60+ with drill (cheap gauge only goes to 60#. I think I broke it as it went past 60# and now it’s stuck at 10# just sitting there). Oil to all rockers. Found a card at the local pizza joint for a polisher here in town. Recent transplant from Illinois. Obviously I tried him out and WOW! Not sure how well the bling goes with my “industrial” look but I like it.  
Will work on redo of brake lines (front to rear) tomorrow.  
Dang! Missed the Arizona Stock SuperStock Race which is tomorrow. Oh well. I just pray this runs good! Will report on that SOON!  
 

 

 

 
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Re: Grafting Mopar Victor 383 to AMC RPM Air-Gap
Reply #128 - 09/16/17 at 10:54:57
 
Looks fantastic! - if it goes as good as it looks will be awesome!
 
What crank trigger setup have you got? and which ATI balancer is that?
 
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Re: Grafting Mopar Victor 383 to AMC RPM Air-Gap
Reply #129 - 09/16/17 at 12:30:48
 
The finished product looks fantastic!  You are a great example of stick-to-it-iveness for us all!
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Re: Grafting Mopar Victor 383 to AMC RPM Air-Gap
Reply #130 - 09/16/17 at 16:46:42
 
I don’t know the p/n of the ATI balancer. I’ve had it since I started racing this car in 1998. It’s 6.65” diameter and uses SBC bolt pattern on the front. That’s a 6.25” MSD crank trigger wheel I just bought. Previously I had an 8” wheel but was not running a motor plate. Now I am and that .310” plate and the Meizeire water pump adapter stacked on top of the motor plate interfered with the crank trigger wheel. Needed to mill .140” off something and I was not happy with that. Called Adkins and he’s the one that told me I had the wrong wheel! Didn’t even realize 6.25” was an option. That took care of that. Of course then I had to slightly re-engineer the trigger mount due (built on the fuel pump cavity) to the smaller diameter of the wheel. I’ve got .060” clearance from wheel to trigger but am not entirely happy that the arc of the trigger adjustment is different than the arc of the wheel; i.e., if you retard the timing (down), it gets tighter from trigger to wheel. If you advance the timing (upwards adjustment), it gets way to wide. But in the end, I decided .060” was adequate and any timing adjustments are through my MSD Grid and laptop anyway so it shouldn’t matter. Previously I did not have the Grid so I would make adjustments by moving the trigger up or down on it’s bracket.  
 
I’m not aware of any shelf item crank trigger system specifically for AMC.
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Re: Grafting Mopar Victor 383 to AMC RPM Air-Gap
Reply #131 - 09/18/17 at 04:59:55
 
Couldn’t find time this weekend to do the brake lines but I did get the dog house all cleaned up. Amazing how a coat of VHT Chassis Black can help! Took a wire wheel to the crossmember, lower control arms, strut brackets and new motor plate mount then painted.  
Trial fitted my new C & R Radiator I had made. That Spal Fan just barely clears the upper & lower radiator support and closing the hood gives a finger width of clearance. I went for cooling over weight this time.  
 

 

 
I have plans for an NHRA 360 in the future. I will report on that NASCAR block in the future. Want to sonic the cylinder walls and deck. I will build it as a back-up spare short-block.  
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Re: Grafting Mopar Victor 383 to AMC RPM Air-Gap
Reply #132 - 09/18/17 at 08:45:37
 
Quote from SuperStockAMX on 09/16/17 at 16:46:42:
I don’t know the p/n of the ATI balancer. I’ve had it since I started racing this car in 1998. It’s 6.65” diameter and uses SBC bolt pattern on the front. That’s a 6.25” MSD crank trigger wheel I just bought. Previously I had an 8” wheel but was not running a motor plate. Now I am and that .310” plate and the Meizeire water pump adapter stacked on top of the motor plate interfered with the crank trigger wheel. Needed to mill .140” off something and I was not happy with that. Called Adkins and he’s the one that told me I had the wrong wheel! Didn’t even realize 6.25” was an option. That took care of that. Of course then I had to slightly re-engineer the trigger mount due (built on the fuel pump cavity) to the smaller diameter of the wheel. I’ve got .060” clearance from wheel to trigger but am not entirely happy that the arc of the trigger adjustment is different than the arc of the wheel; i.e., if you retard the timing (down), it gets tighter from trigger to wheel. If you advance the timing (upwards adjustment), it gets way to wide. But in the end, I decided .060” was adequate and any timing adjustments are through my MSD Grid and laptop anyway so it shouldn’t matter. Previously I did not have the Grid so I would make adjustments by moving the trigger up or down on it’s bracket.

I’m not aware of any shelf item crank trigger system specifically for AMC.

 
OK thanks for the information!
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Re: Grafting Mopar Victor 383 to AMC RPM Air-Gap
Reply #133 - 09/24/17 at 07:18:56
 
Brake lines done. Bleed in the morning. Go install cabinets in remodel next. Get back and install engine. That’s the plan anyway...
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Re: Grafting Mopar Victor 383 to AMC RPM Air-Gap
Reply #134 - 09/26/17 at 02:11:14
 
So nice when you go to bleed brakes that the bleeder screws have vice grip marks on them and are frozen in the caliper! Same shop that ruined the last engine did this. PB Blaster soaking right now and ordered new bleeder screws today.  
Cabinet install went just as bad yesterday....ugh!  
Did get the AMX pushed to the other bay and engine off the stand at least. Too tired tonight but will get flywheel, bell housing, trans on in the morning before I head out to work.
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