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Grafting Mopar Victor 383 to AMC RPM Air-Gap (Read 33370 times)
scott
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Re: Grafting Mopar Victor 383 to AMC RPM Air-Gap
Reply #150 - 10/02/17 at 21:02:22
 
I see you have a passenger seat. Can I ride shotgun??
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Re: Grafting Mopar Victor 383 to AMC RPM Air-Gap
Reply #151 - 10/02/17 at 21:56:37
 
I would love to give a ride!  Cool
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Re: Grafting Mopar Victor 383 to AMC RPM Air-Gap
Reply #152 - 10/03/17 at 02:56:51
 
Great job, looks awesome! I look forward to hearing how it goes at the track.
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Re: Grafting Mopar Victor 383 to AMC RPM Air-Gap
Reply #153 - 10/06/17 at 05:21:49
 
Made a bracket for MSD HVC II coil to mount on motor plate as I did not like the way I had installed it previously. Not sure I like it now either but itís there to stay now. All wiring hooked up and had a problem with my new Spal 16Ē fan (yes, probably overkill but I live in Arizona and tired of long cool downs between rounds!), fuse kept popping and I never have electrical issues. Called C&R radiator and I confirmed the 20amp fuse I ran on the previous fan is half of what I needed! Put a 40amp in the fuse block (car was completely rewired with Painless when I first built the car in 1997) and that fixed the problem. This fan is front mount and sounds like a hurricane. Well, what I imagine they sound like, living in hurricane free Arizona....
Just have to install lower radiator hose, add distilled water and fix leaks for the oil sending unit (for emergency low oil pressure light) and a couple easy fixes and start it up tomorrow.  
 
MSD Coil mounted:

 
16Ē SPAL fan BARELY fits!

 
C& R Radiator cores are unique:

 
I told C&R today this radiator I had built would work on all 1968-1974 AMC Javelin / AMX but I recommended adding 1Ē to each of the side ears. As I have it mounted, the fan clears (12Ē would be perfect for most I believe), and the top tank is just under the hood like factory. Factory hoses fit.  

 
Cross our fingers for start up tomorrow!
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Re: Grafting Mopar Victor 383 to AMC RPM Air-Gap
Reply #154 - 10/07/17 at 04:40:43
 
Got bothered by work today....But I did have it ready to start around 6:00 tonight but I keep the race car as low key as possible as I live in a HOA and my practice is to start / load the car mid-day so as to keep the peace. So...have a swim meet in the morning for the kids and I should be home by 2:00 and fire it up.
Today I fixed my oil leak(s), extended wires for oil sending unit & tach, filled radiator and pressure tested the system @ 10#ís and it held for 5 minutes, adjusted floats and fuel pressure, installed radiator overflow....think that covers it.  
Now with around 1000 # spring pressure, it takes a 18Ē breaker bar and my floor jack handle over the breaker bar to rotate the engine on the stand. It will be interesting to see how the starter does tomorrow. I do have a hi-torque starter and 16v electrical. On my last engine, it sounded like a 6.0:1 compression engine when you hit the starter button.  Huh
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Re: Grafting Mopar Victor 383 to AMC RPM Air-Gap
Reply #155 - 10/08/17 at 00:55:30
 
Came home from swim meet where kids did a great job, all excited to hit the start and ignition switches and bleeeggggg.....not enough volts going to starter. Checked battery and it shows 16.09 volts. Hit electric fan switch...same thing, barely spins. Hardly used batter voltage yesterday. Had wife hit electric fan switch and it goes from 16v to 4v. Same with starter. Battery will carry voltage but no load.  
I live in a small town of 5,000,000 and darn if I can find anybody that carries a 16v battery! Seems like I went through this before when I stepped up to 16v. I do want 16v for ignition and starter. Friend has a wet cell / sealed 16v battery and he got that due to finicky AGM batteries that just die instantly. This is my 2nd 16v AGM battery Iíve lost and apparently is attributable to me not throwing a charger on it every 45-60 days despite the battery reading fully charged. This battery has been dormant about probably 20 months so I guess my bad.  
Now I wait until Monday to find a battery.  Angry
Oh...I did consider using a battery from a vehicle just to start the car but all of mine are post batteries and my AMX has cables for bolt-on terminals. And Iím not willing to change over just for one start.  Sad
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Re: Grafting Mopar Victor 383 to AMC RPM Air-Gap
Reply #156 - 10/10/17 at 06:42:35
 
Tried battery from kids Mustang with a whopping 560 CCA. It was fully charged 12v battery and starter did turn the engine over but dropped voltage to 8.5 range. Even if it was spinning fast enough (not), not enough juice for ignition. Ordered new 16v Rock. Will be here Wednesday. Also ordered from MSD the correct ďBananaĒ bracket for the smaller OD crank trigger wheel. It will be here Thursday. Will use distributor to start the car while I re-fabricate the new banana bracket.
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Re: Grafting Mopar Victor 383 to AMC RPM Air-Gap
Reply #157 - 10/12/17 at 04:18:37
 
Battery arrived today and it runs! Embarrassingly, I spent over an hour trying to figure out why I did not have spark. Wired correctly, check. Online looking at MSD. White wire, jump this, blah blah. Called MSD. They said same thing. All I had to do was connect +/- to coil and ignition box to distributor (I decided to use the distributor until the banana bracket arrives, supposedly tomorrow). My fear is welding on chassis fried the box. Got off the phone from MSD and checked the LED light on the box that is supposed to come on. It didnít. I trace power & ground wires...all good. I go to the battery in the trunk and frickiní idiot! I forgot the power and ground to the new battery.  
From there it started right up. Set timing and adjusted carb. I have timing at 35* right now but will reset to 38*.  
 
I gotta say, and I suspected this would be the case...a 112* LSA cam sure sounds tranquil to the 109* LSAís I have always run. Sounds pretty mundane. Especially since the car was in my garage with the nose facing the street which normally would be deafening. I even confirmed this with Adkins who has a very similar cam as mine (Redline Racing Cam). He said same thing with his. Of course WOT will be a whole other story (I hope!).  
 
The oil pressure was rock steady at 83# cold and high idle @ 2,000. By the time it was hot and 1,500 idle (for now), it was 60# and no higher reving it. However, the Masterlube tank was not pressurized correctly at that time so those oil readings may change. Have to read up on that.  
 
As I suspected, valve covers leak. Not a little, a lot. I have Unique Aluminum Products and have used these before with no issues. However, I used really thick SCE gaskets this time and the allen bolts I used before were to short. I bought the next longer length and then are a few threads to long and wonít allow the gasket to fully compress and seal. So tomorrow I will put regular gaskets in and the old bolts. Easier than cutting all those allen bolts. Same time Iíll recheck valve lash.  
 
Clearview oil filtration - nice! Know immediately if you have an issue. So far, so good.  
 
Battery is not fully charged when it arrived so Iíll take that into consideration but so far, the battery does not like a lot of starting. This is a ďRockĒ 16v which has 1050 cranking amps. Battery will charge overnight. Fan cooled the radiator from 160* to 140* quickly. Like, much quicker than ever. Of course the fan is a 22amp load which I may not like. As I said, I really need a fully charged battery to evaluate everything. Oh, I do have timing start retard programed the ignition.  
 
Iíll have my son do a YouTube video this weekend.
 
Thatís all for now. First race is 10/21.  
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Re: Grafting Mopar Victor 383 to AMC RPM Air-Gap
Reply #158 - 10/12/17 at 21:48:53
 
Whew!  Congratulations!  I'm glad all the rocks and boulders have been surpassed and this thing runs!  Can't wait to hear about the results.
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Re: Grafting Mopar Victor 383 to AMC RPM Air-Gap
Reply #159 - 10/13/17 at 14:35:37
 
yes congrats...very nicely done...looking forward to the out come...been a while....
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Re: Grafting Mopar Victor 383 to AMC RPM Air-Gap
Reply #160 - 10/16/17 at 04:04:28
 
Replaced bleeder screws today using extraction socket for rounded off hex heads. First time Iíve ever used one and boy, did it work and save my butt! Because nothing else (PB Blaster, WD40, heat, tapping with brass hammer, vice grips...) was working and I was thinking MW was getting an order for 3 calipers on Monday (as I did get one caliper fixed).  
Bled brakes. Checked clutch air-gap. Drained old fuel (really old..) and put in fresh fuel. Difference was amazing. Checked compression and have 185# on all. Timing is set.  
Tomorrow wire two wires for MasterLube pre-oiler / accusump, put tires back on and adjust rear suspension as needed.  
Will test and put a load on engine (Line2Line skirt coating break-in procedure) on a back road I just found out in the middle of the dessert maybe 15 minutes from home, probably Tuesday.  
Test-n-tune this Friday in Tucson, AZ (3 hours from home) followed by a one day / two race event by the Arizona Stock / Superstock Association on Saturday.
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