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Grafting Mopar Victor 383 to AMC RPM Air-Gap (Read 37062 times)
scott
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Re: Grafting Mopar Victor 383 to AMC RPM Air-Gap
Reply #150 - 10/02/17 at 21:02:22
 
I see you have a passenger seat. Can I ride shotgun??
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Re: Grafting Mopar Victor 383 to AMC RPM Air-Gap
Reply #151 - 10/02/17 at 21:56:37
 
I would love to give a ride!  Cool
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Re: Grafting Mopar Victor 383 to AMC RPM Air-Gap
Reply #152 - 10/03/17 at 02:56:51
 
Great job, looks awesome! I look forward to hearing how it goes at the track.
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Re: Grafting Mopar Victor 383 to AMC RPM Air-Gap
Reply #153 - 10/06/17 at 05:21:49
 
Made a bracket for MSD HVC II coil to mount on motor plate as I did not like the way I had installed it previously. Not sure I like it now either but itís there to stay now. All wiring hooked up and had a problem with my new Spal 16Ē fan (yes, probably overkill but I live in Arizona and tired of long cool downs between rounds!), fuse kept popping and I never have electrical issues. Called C&R radiator and I confirmed the 20amp fuse I ran on the previous fan is half of what I needed! Put a 40amp in the fuse block (car was completely rewired with Painless when I first built the car in 1997) and that fixed the problem. This fan is front mount and sounds like a hurricane. Well, what I imagine they sound like, living in hurricane free Arizona....
Just have to install lower radiator hose, add distilled water and fix leaks for the oil sending unit (for emergency low oil pressure light) and a couple easy fixes and start it up tomorrow.  
 
MSD Coil mounted:

 
16Ē SPAL fan BARELY fits!

 
C& R Radiator cores are unique:

 
I told C&R today this radiator I had built would work on all 1968-1974 AMC Javelin / AMX but I recommended adding 1Ē to each of the side ears. As I have it mounted, the fan clears (12Ē would be perfect for most I believe), and the top tank is just under the hood like factory. Factory hoses fit.  

 
Cross our fingers for start up tomorrow!
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Re: Grafting Mopar Victor 383 to AMC RPM Air-Gap
Reply #154 - 10/07/17 at 04:40:43
 
Got bothered by work today....But I did have it ready to start around 6:00 tonight but I keep the race car as low key as possible as I live in a HOA and my practice is to start / load the car mid-day so as to keep the peace. So...have a swim meet in the morning for the kids and I should be home by 2:00 and fire it up.
Today I fixed my oil leak(s), extended wires for oil sending unit & tach, filled radiator and pressure tested the system @ 10#ís and it held for 5 minutes, adjusted floats and fuel pressure, installed radiator overflow....think that covers it.  
Now with around 1000 # spring pressure, it takes a 18Ē breaker bar and my floor jack handle over the breaker bar to rotate the engine on the stand. It will be interesting to see how the starter does tomorrow. I do have a hi-torque starter and 16v electrical. On my last engine, it sounded like a 6.0:1 compression engine when you hit the starter button.  Huh
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Re: Grafting Mopar Victor 383 to AMC RPM Air-Gap
Reply #155 - 10/08/17 at 00:55:30
 
Came home from swim meet where kids did a great job, all excited to hit the start and ignition switches and bleeeggggg.....not enough volts going to starter. Checked battery and it shows 16.09 volts. Hit electric fan switch...same thing, barely spins. Hardly used batter voltage yesterday. Had wife hit electric fan switch and it goes from 16v to 4v. Same with starter. Battery will carry voltage but no load.  
I live in a small town of 5,000,000 and darn if I can find anybody that carries a 16v battery! Seems like I went through this before when I stepped up to 16v. I do want 16v for ignition and starter. Friend has a wet cell / sealed 16v battery and he got that due to finicky AGM batteries that just die instantly. This is my 2nd 16v AGM battery Iíve lost and apparently is attributable to me not throwing a charger on it every 45-60 days despite the battery reading fully charged. This battery has been dormant about probably 20 months so I guess my bad.  
Now I wait until Monday to find a battery.  Angry
Oh...I did consider using a battery from a vehicle just to start the car but all of mine are post batteries and my AMX has cables for bolt-on terminals. And Iím not willing to change over just for one start.  Sad
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Re: Grafting Mopar Victor 383 to AMC RPM Air-Gap
Reply #156 - 10/10/17 at 06:42:35
 
Tried battery from kids Mustang with a whopping 560 CCA. It was fully charged 12v battery and starter did turn the engine over but dropped voltage to 8.5 range. Even if it was spinning fast enough (not), not enough juice for ignition. Ordered new 16v Rock. Will be here Wednesday. Also ordered from MSD the correct ďBananaĒ bracket for the smaller OD crank trigger wheel. It will be here Thursday. Will use distributor to start the car while I re-fabricate the new banana bracket.
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Re: Grafting Mopar Victor 383 to AMC RPM Air-Gap
Reply #157 - 10/12/17 at 04:18:37
 
Battery arrived today and it runs! Embarrassingly, I spent over an hour trying to figure out why I did not have spark. Wired correctly, check. Online looking at MSD. White wire, jump this, blah blah. Called MSD. They said same thing. All I had to do was connect +/- to coil and ignition box to distributor (I decided to use the distributor until the banana bracket arrives, supposedly tomorrow). My fear is welding on chassis fried the box. Got off the phone from MSD and checked the LED light on the box that is supposed to come on. It didnít. I trace power & ground wires...all good. I go to the battery in the trunk and frickiní idiot! I forgot the power and ground to the new battery.  
From there it started right up. Set timing and adjusted carb. I have timing at 35* right now but will reset to 38*.  
 
I gotta say, and I suspected this would be the case...a 112* LSA cam sure sounds tranquil to the 109* LSAís I have always run. Sounds pretty mundane. Especially since the car was in my garage with the nose facing the street which normally would be deafening. I even confirmed this with Adkins who has a very similar cam as mine (Redline Racing Cam). He said same thing with his. Of course WOT will be a whole other story (I hope!).  
 
The oil pressure was rock steady at 83# cold and high idle @ 2,000. By the time it was hot and 1,500 idle (for now), it was 60# and no higher reving it. However, the Masterlube tank was not pressurized correctly at that time so those oil readings may change. Have to read up on that.  
 
As I suspected, valve covers leak. Not a little, a lot. I have Unique Aluminum Products and have used these before with no issues. However, I used really thick SCE gaskets this time and the allen bolts I used before were to short. I bought the next longer length and then are a few threads to long and wonít allow the gasket to fully compress and seal. So tomorrow I will put regular gaskets in and the old bolts. Easier than cutting all those allen bolts. Same time Iíll recheck valve lash.  
 
Clearview oil filtration - nice! Know immediately if you have an issue. So far, so good.  
 
Battery is not fully charged when it arrived so Iíll take that into consideration but so far, the battery does not like a lot of starting. This is a ďRockĒ 16v which has 1050 cranking amps. Battery will charge overnight. Fan cooled the radiator from 160* to 140* quickly. Like, much quicker than ever. Of course the fan is a 22amp load which I may not like. As I said, I really need a fully charged battery to evaluate everything. Oh, I do have timing start retard programed the ignition.  
 
Iíll have my son do a YouTube video this weekend.
 
Thatís all for now. First race is 10/21.  
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Re: Grafting Mopar Victor 383 to AMC RPM Air-Gap
Reply #158 - 10/12/17 at 21:48:53
 
Whew!  Congratulations!  I'm glad all the rocks and boulders have been surpassed and this thing runs!  Can't wait to hear about the results.
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Re: Grafting Mopar Victor 383 to AMC RPM Air-Gap
Reply #159 - 10/13/17 at 14:35:37
 
yes congrats...very nicely done...looking forward to the out come...been a while....
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Re: Grafting Mopar Victor 383 to AMC RPM Air-Gap
Reply #160 - 10/16/17 at 04:04:28
 
Replaced bleeder screws today using extraction socket for rounded off hex heads. First time Iíve ever used one and boy, did it work and save my butt! Because nothing else (PB Blaster, WD40, heat, tapping with brass hammer, vice grips...) was working and I was thinking MW was getting an order for 3 calipers on Monday (as I did get one caliper fixed).  
Bled brakes. Checked clutch air-gap. Drained old fuel (really old..) and put in fresh fuel. Difference was amazing. Checked compression and have 185# on all. Timing is set.  
Tomorrow wire two wires for MasterLube pre-oiler / accusump, put tires back on and adjust rear suspension as needed.  
Will test and put a load on engine (Line2Line skirt coating break-in procedure) on a back road I just found out in the middle of the dessert maybe 15 minutes from home, probably Tuesday.  
Test-n-tune this Friday in Tucson, AZ (3 hours from home) followed by a one day / two race event by the Arizona Stock / Superstock Association on Saturday.
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Re: Grafting Mopar Victor 383 to AMC RPM Air-Gap
Reply #161 - 10/20/17 at 05:48:12
 
Did a few minor things on it today. Decided not to test on the dessert road and am heading out tomorrow afternoon for the 3 hour tow to Tucson, AZ. Gates open at 3:00, T&T starts at 6:00. That gives me 3 hours or so to go up and down the return road and do whatever I need to do. If all goes well, race Saturday.  
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Re: Grafting Mopar Victor 383 to AMC RPM Air-Gap
Reply #162 - 10/22/17 at 15:48:57
 
Loaded car on trailer and first time out of the garage. All I can say at this point, Iíve never had an AMC this responsive. Sounds wicked.  
Arrived at track around 4:30. Techíed in. Drove around the pits and hit the return road with best attempt to load the engine by simulating a dyno was to put it in 3rd gear and maintain speed while dragging the brakes. Eventually I kinda launched the car hitting 7,000 RPM and shifting into 2nd and feathering the throttle. Car went straight and sounded great. Battery would not start after this burnout. Had to walk to my Expedition to get it and generator †& charger. It was a nice walk after a 3 hour drive. Guess itís time to race!
Track was not prepped at all. This was your typical Friday night T&T. Unfortunately, I had the shocks and front end travel set for very good conditions. I just left that alone as I really just wanted to go down the track.  
Launch was 5800 RPM. Spun off line. Actually spinning tires in all 4 gears and back end swaying. Shut off before the finish line....not really sure where as I was concentrating more on keeping the car straight. On return road, battery again dead. Gregg brought my Expedition. Took 20-30 minutes to charge this new battery (which was fully charged before pass). All I am using is fuel & water pump, ignition and starter. Engine starts quickly. Canít find any loose connections.  
Anyway, finally get the time slip. 10.87 @ 120. This is an altitude track (3,000í). Correction to sea level factor is .9640 x 10.87 = 10.47.  
MPH is 1.0381 x 120 = 124.57.  
So I guess a 10.47 spinning and letting off on first pass isnít so bad. Oh....While waiting for battery charger I realized I did not lower the slick air pressure after tow! Checked pressure and it was 18#!!! Idiot. I dropped to 10# for next pass.  
Back to pits and nothing but charging.  
Head up to staging lanes with charger. Battery is 17.10 volts. Ignition on drops to 16.99 volts. Starter on drops to 12.7 volts. Allow battery to recover is 16.8 volts. Check voltage at battery cutoff switch and relay under hood...no problems found. And Gregg is an engineer that makes electrical stuff at Honeywell for aircraft so heís a lot smarter than I am. We are convinced there is a problem with the battery but letís make another pass.  
10#ís in the slicks and it worse than before...canít keep the car straight and abort the pass before I wreck the car. Ran a 14 something. Did make it to the pits on the battery at least.  
Stock / Super Stock gang gathers around to check out the new engine. Nobody has ever seen a Clear View Filter. I proudly show it off and show them how I put a bicycle hand pump on it and oil is pulled off the filter screen and look! you can see....a shitload of engine particles!!! Yea, thatís what was there after two passes. Funny, oil pressure was 60# at low RPM and WOT and only wavered 3-4 #ís. By the way....I had eliminated the MasterLube before I left home as I decided that was not allowing me to know the true oil pressure of the engine. So that was not affecting the oil pressure.  
After some smart heads looked at my external oil lines....the use of the nylon braided suction line from the oil pan sump to the oil pump was questioned as being to soft and allowing the line to collapse on suction (like a lower radiator hose). One of the racers with a 383 Super Stock ĎCuda has an external oil line and he only used hard lines except about 9Ē of the same oil line I have but he installed a flat wound spring in that section to keep it from collapsing. See here: http://www.russellperformance.com/mc/accessories/misc.shtml
I have never heard of this part or issue.  
Later that night I called my cam guy. He knows everybody from NASCAR to Sprint to Road Race & Drag race. He immediately told me how bad my hose was and NASCAR learned along time ago it would collapse and starve oil pressure / volume. All hard lines except minimal for connections; like 6Ē-9Ē.  
So is this the issue? I donít know. What I do know is I still have oil pressure that is more than adequate and the particulates are almost 100% aluminum with only a minute amount of copper so HOPEFULLY I just need new bearings and fix the problem. Should be minimal expense and downtime †Grin. Just need to find some time.  
I will be adding the second external oil line by modifying the oil pan for clearance and the internal oil line this time. Oh...calling the battery guy Monday.  
Will keep yaíll posted as I progress. †Roll Eyes
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« Last Edit: 10/23/17 at 03:17:23 by SuperStockAMX »  

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Re: Grafting Mopar Victor 383 to AMC RPM Air-Gap
Reply #163 - 10/23/17 at 01:32:43
 
Well that is a bummer, sorry to hear of the troubles Jeff.  I certainly hope it ends up being a easy and sure fix.  Andy
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Re: Grafting Mopar Victor 383 to AMC RPM Air-Gap
Reply #164 - 10/23/17 at 03:16:33
 
Apparently the hose is rated 250 PSI burst strength but only 29Ē vacumm to collapse.  
Spoke to one of the guys that saw the filter and he commented that the aluminum was shiny, as opposed to blackened, which is a good sign.  
Just got done mopping the garage from the install. Iíll have the engine out and apart this week.
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