I see you have a passenger seat. Can I ride shotgun??

Great job, looks awesome! I look forward to hearing how it goes at the track.

Got bothered by work today....But I did have it ready to start around 6:00 tonight but I keep the race car as low key as possible as I live in a HOA and my practice is to start / load the car mid-day so as to keep the peace. So...have a swim meet in the morning for the kids and I should be home by 2:00 and fire it up.
Today I fixed my oil leak(s), extended wires for oil sending unit & tach, filled radiator and pressure tested the system @ 10#’s and it held for 5 minutes, adjusted floats and fuel pressure, installed radiator overflow....think that covers it.  
Now with around 1000 # spring pressure, it takes a 18” breaker bar and my floor jack handle over the breaker bar to rotate the engine on the stand. It will be interesting to see how the starter does tomorrow. I do have a hi-torque starter and 16v electrical. On my last engine, it sounded like a 6.0:1 compression engine when you hit the starter button.  

Tried battery from kids Mustang with a whopping 560 CCA. It was fully charged 12v battery and starter did turn the engine over but dropped voltage to 8.5 range. Even if it was spinning fast enough (not), not enough juice for ignition. Ordered new 16v Rock. Will be here Wednesday. Also ordered from MSD the correct “Banana” bracket for the smaller OD crank trigger wheel. It will be here Thursday. Will use distributor to start the car while I re-fabricate the new banana bracket.

Whew!  Congratulations!  I'm glad all the rocks and boulders have been surpassed and this thing runs!  Can't wait to hear about the results.

Replaced bleeder screws today using extraction socket for rounded off hex heads. First time I’ve ever used one and boy, did it work and save my butt! Because nothing else (PB Blaster, WD40, heat, tapping with brass hammer, vice grips...) was working and I was thinking MW was getting an order for 3 calipers on Monday (as I did get one caliper fixed).  
Bled brakes. Checked clutch air-gap. Drained old fuel (really old..) and put in fresh fuel. Difference was amazing. Checked compression and have 185# on all. Timing is set.  
Tomorrow wire two wires for MasterLube pre-oiler / accusump, put tires back on and adjust rear suspension as needed.  
Will test and put a load on engine (Line2Line skirt coating break-in procedure) on a back road I just found out in the middle of the dessert maybe 15 minutes from home, probably Tuesday.  
Test-n-tune this Friday in Tucson, AZ (3 hours from home) followed by a one day / two race event by the Arizona Stock / Superstock Association on Saturday.

Loaded car on trailer and first time out of the garage. All I can say at this point, I’ve never had an AMC this responsive. Sounds wicked.  
Arrived at track around 4:30. Tech’ed in. Drove around the pits and hit the return road with best attempt to load the engine by simulating a dyno was to put it in 3rd gear and maintain speed while dragging the brakes. Eventually I kinda launched the car hitting 7,000 RPM and shifting into 2nd and feathering the throttle. Car went straight and sounded great. Battery would not start after this burnout. Had to walk to my Expedition to get it and generator  & charger. It was a nice walk after a 3 hour drive. Guess it’s time to race!
Track was not prepped at all. This was your typical Friday night T&T. Unfortunately, I had the shocks and front end travel set for very good conditions. I just left that alone as I really just wanted to go down the track.  
Launch was 5800 RPM. Spun off line. Actually spinning tires in all 4 gears and back end swaying. Shut off before the finish line....not really sure where as I was concentrating more on keeping the car straight. On return road, battery again dead. Gregg brought my Expedition. Took 20-30 minutes to charge this new battery (which was fully charged before pass). All I am using is fuel & water pump, ignition and starter. Engine starts quickly. Can’t find any loose connections.  
Anyway, finally get the time slip. 10.87 @ 120. This is an altitude track (3,000’). Correction to sea level factor is .9640 x 10.87 = 10.47.  
MPH is 1.0381 x 120 = 124.57.  
So I guess a 10.47 spinning and letting off on first pass isn’t so bad. Oh....While waiting for battery charger I realized I did not lower the slick air pressure after tow! Checked pressure and it was 18#!!! Idiot. I dropped to 10# for next pass.  
Back to pits and nothing but charging.  
Head up to staging lanes with charger. Battery is 17.10 volts. Ignition on drops to 16.99 volts. Starter on drops to 12.7 volts. Allow battery to recover is 16.8 volts. Check voltage at battery cutoff switch and relay under hood...no problems found. And Gregg is an engineer that makes electrical stuff at Honeywell for aircraft so he’s a lot smarter than I am. We are convinced there is a problem with the battery but let’s make another pass.  
10#’s in the slicks and it worse than before...can’t keep the car straight and abort the pass before I wreck the car. Ran a 14 something. Did make it to the pits on the battery at least.  
Stock / Super Stock gang gathers around to check out the new engine. Nobody has ever seen a Clear View Filter. I proudly show it off and show them how I put a bicycle hand pump on it and oil is pulled off the filter screen and look! you can see....a shitload of engine particles!!! Yea, that’s what was there after two passes. Funny, oil pressure was 60# at low RPM and WOT and only wavered 3-4 #’s. By the way....I had eliminated the MasterLube before I left home as I decided that was not allowing me to know the true oil pressure of the engine. So that was not affecting the oil pressure.  
After some smart heads looked at my external oil lines....the use of the nylon braided suction line from the oil pan sump to the oil pump was questioned as being to soft and allowing the line to collapse on suction (like a lower radiator hose). One of the racers with a 383 Super Stock ‘Cuda has an external oil line and he only used hard lines except about 9” of the same oil line I have but he installed a flat wound spring in that section to keep it from collapsing. See here: http://www.russellperformance.com/mc/accessories/misc.shtml
I have never heard of this part or issue.  
Later that night I called my cam guy. He knows everybody from NASCAR to Sprint to Road Race & Drag race. He immediately told me how bad my hose was and NASCAR learned along time ago it would collapse and starve oil pressure / volume. All hard lines except minimal for connections; like 6”-9”.  
So is this the issue? I don’t know. What I do know is I still have oil pressure that is more than adequate and the particulates are almost 100% aluminum with only a minute amount of copper so HOPEFULLY I just need new bearings and fix the problem. Should be minimal expense and downtime  . Just need to find some time.  
I will be adding the second external oil line by modifying the oil pan for clearance and the internal oil line this time. Oh...calling the battery guy Monday.  
Will keep ya’ll posted as I progress.  

Apparently the hose is rated 250 PSI burst strength but only 29” vacumm to collapse.  
Spoke to one of the guys that saw the filter and he commented that the aluminum was shiny, as opposed to blackened, which is a good sign.  
Just got done mopping the garage from the install. I’ll have the engine out and apart this week.